Squeezing linseed oil on a home oil press

[Objectives]

Squeezing linseed oil on a home oil press

Category: Healthy eating

Ingredients
Linen

Cooking method

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• Objectives
• I could not find a flaxseed oil in retail that would suit me in quality (for example, it was without any bitterness), as a result of which I decided to make it myself, given that flax is quite easy to buy. The main goal for me is to obtain the highest quality oil that can be stored and used for a long time.
• Factors affecting oil quality
• The main negative factors for oil are:
• • Oxygen in the air (causes oxidative rancidity);
• • Water (causes hydrolytic rancidity)
• • Temperature (accelerates the course of all chemical reactions, including the previous two);
• • Light (ultraviolet);
• • Metal ions, even in trace amounts (they are oxidation catalysts), primarily copper and its alloys (brass, bronze, etc.), but also iron, manganese and chromium;
• • The action of various microbiology.
• See also post in the topic about melangers.
• Raw materials
• It is advisable to buy flax seeds that are no more than a year from the moment of harvest, and that they are separated from foreign components (twigs, seeds of other crops, etc.). This time I managed to buy 44 packages of 200g and 9 packages of 300g.
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• The actual total weight turned out to be 11611.3g (in packages of 200g it was slightly more than stated, in packages of 300g it was slightly less than stated).
• Drying of raw materials
• Usually, in order to get the most efficient oil extraction efficiency, the raw materials are pre-fried, but since I had other goals, I dry the flax in order to reduce the moisture content in it and thereby improve the quality of the resulting oil. I poured about 810g of flax on silicone perforated mats and 318g of flax on trays for isidri marshmallows:
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• It took 1h 41m to fill and weigh
• From experience, I know approximately that the taste of flaxseed oil / urbech will not deteriorate if the flax is dried at temperatures up to 47 ° C (maybe more, but I did not check), as a result of which I set the temperature for both dryers to 45 ° C.
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• Considering that now, in fact, it is winter time and the living quarters in the apartment are additionally humidified, the dryers are located on a glazed loggia, where the absolute humidity (dew point) is noticeably less than in the rest of the apartment.
• The drying time, given that I would like to get the maximum dry product, is determined by both the drying temperature used and the absolute air humidity (dew point) in the room in which the dryers are located. I decided to control the process by monitoring the weight of the product during drying and temperature / humidity in order to more or less consciously determine the moment when drying should be stopped. To do this, I weighed the entire Isidri dryer and recorded the values ​​obtained.
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• The temperature / humidity in the loggia was measured using a thermohygrometer with a capacitive humidity sensor (devices with a resistive humidity sensor are not able to show humidity close to real) and calculated the dew point temperature using an online calculator 🔗 The result is something like this:
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• It can be seen that the three days allotted by me turned out to be quite enough for the change in mass (shrinkage) to reach a plateau. Moreover, it can be seen that further drying at the same dew point on the loggia will no longer lead to any noticeable decrease in mass.Temperature / humidity control can be useful to track the moment when the dew point changes abruptly and you need to take any action: the humidity in the loggia can begin to rise, which will lead to moisture of the drying product inside the dryers (which will be visible on the mass gain).
• For all measurements I spent 21m, for the entire drying 52.8 kWh of electrical energy was spent, after the dryers 11110.4 g of flax came out, which were cooled to room temperature.
• If, for some reason, after drying and before pressing the oil, there is a long time interval, then in order to reduce the collection of moisture from the air, I place the product in vacuum containers / pans and evacuate the air: according to my measurements, these actions are really quite effective.
• Preparation for oil extraction
• Further, the features of flax and the equipment available to me will be taken into account: flax is quite hard, during the spinning process, quite a few solid particles (grain debris) are obtained in the oil, and on my oil press flax wakes up a little between the squeezing basket and the body.
• Due to the high hardness of flax, a rather high temperature is obtained during the extraction of oil, even without the use of external heating, while such a temperature is not required for the extraction itself. As a result, I wanted to slightly reduce the temperature of the oil leaving the oil press by increasing the outlet tapered hole for the cake (and reducing the efficiency of pressing the oil). The peculiarity of my oil press, which consists in attaching the squeezing basket to the gear motor with 4 nuts, allows you to put washers and spacers, thereby changing the outlet opening both upward and downward with a step, in my case, of 100 microns.
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• The photo shows a complete washer (300 microns thick), with which we reduce the size of the hole for the cake outlet, and two measuring probes (600 microns thick), with which we increase the size of the hole for the cake outlet. As a result, in total, I increased the size of the exit hole by 300 microns from the base value.
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• Further, an extension of the cake (made of a heated towel rail) is screwed onto the outlet of the squeezing basket, which prevents oil from spraying by the escaping cake, which can "explode", transfers the place where the cake falls farther from the oil press body and contributes to some compaction. Oil may leak from the junction of the oil cake extension and the squeezing basket (in the case of flax, the oil will be bitter here, since the cake is very hot) and fall into the pan with the finished product, so it is wrapped in a paper napkin to prevent this. The standard heating element of the oil press is not installed. The tray for the original product was slightly enlarged with the help of a plastic container and a hot glue gun (as it turned out later, due to this, the vibration of the tray was slightly reduced due to an increase in its mass). A sieve of a small volume is fixed on the squeezing basket, which will retain large grain talus and flax seeds. The oil will drain into a saucepan of a suitable size and the cake will fall into a bucket, which is lined with a strong bag. The oil press is connected to the network through a power outlet-wattmeter and a compact oscilloscope, so that you can find out both the total consumed electrical energy and see the dynamics of the spinning process. Under the attachment of the wringing basket, a paper envelope is attached to the housing of the gear motor, into which the flaxseeds will fall, since my oil press does not have any seal that prevents this.
• Pressing the oil directly into the bottle
• During the extraction and processing of oil, forced air humidification was turned off so that there was less moisture in the oil. The flax after the dryer was cooled to room temperature.
• First, for demonstration purposes, I want to squeeze the oil directly into a 125ml bottle.
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• It is not difficult to see that there is active aerated oil as it flows from the sieve to the watering can and from the watering can to the bottle. As a result, over 6m we got 117.2 g of oil with oil cake particles.
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• This oil will settle to see what it can do.
• Oil extraction
• In the beginning, I want to do something with aeration of the oil: so that it does not drip into a container from a great height, but flows over some object. So far, I solve this problem as follows:
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• Overall goal: to minimize the free range of the oil jet. Next, I load flax and start the process.
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• Already about 40 minutes after the start, the process reached a plateau and the main characteristics do not change: it pours little with a temperature of 34 ° C, cake from 100 ° C, the power consumed from the network is about 360W:
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• As a result, in 2h 36m we got 3850.4g of oil with oil cake particles
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• 7053.4 g of cake and consumed 0.94 kWh of electricity. Most of the time it was possible to do some other business, since it was only necessary to add flax from time to time and renew the bag with cake once.
• Preparing oil for filtration
• Before moving on to filtering the oil, I want to degass it and cool it down to room temperature.
• I have very little free space in the pan, and at the beginning of degassing the process is quite active and additional volume is required for foam. As a result, I poured the oil into another container.
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• So, we take a container of oil
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• We connect a vacuum source to it and turn it on
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• The most important thing, at the initial moment, is to track the situation when the foam has risen very much and disconnect the vacuum source: I just disconnected the vacuum hose from the lid. Wait a while until the foam settles and connect the vacuum source again, until the boiling is stable and calm.
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• Further, I did the same with the second container and left it to evacuate for about 25 minutes.
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• As a source of vacuum, this time I took a two-stage rotary vane vacuum pump with an oil seal (these are used, for example, in the assembly / repair of refrigeration equipment), since it creates the greatest vacuum of the equipment available to me, which allows the oil to boil most vigorously. So that there is no oil mist in the room, which inevitably forms at the outlet of such pumps, its exhaust is connected to the exhaust ventilation.
• In addition to degassing the oil, which is necessary to reduce the content of dissolved oxygen in the oil and prevent boiling through the filter during filtration, I also want to cool the oil to the temperatures I need. In general, the temperature during filtration is determined by the characteristics of a particular oil: on the one hand, we do not want the oil to thicken (or solidify), on the other hand, we want, if the oil has waxy and / or wax-like parts, so that they crystallize before we start filtering, otherwise they won't be mechanically filtered. In addition, the higher the temperature, the more rancid the oil, which is especially important for easily perishable oils such as flaxseed. For example, I filtered the cocoa butter so that the butter would not cool to less than 40 ° C - 50 ° C, otherwise it would become solid. And sunflower oil or chia oil can be filtered at a low temperature (in the refrigerator), because even if the oil is transparent at room temperature, crystals can appear in it during storage in the refrigerator. In other words, there is a desire to have the lowest possible oil temperature, but at the same time to prevent thickening (or hardening) of the oil, and so that condensation falls on it.
• After the oil press, as I wrote earlier, the temperature of the oil was about 34 ° C, and in order to cool it faster and let the oil boil, I put both containers under vacuum in the refrigerator. Since I further wanted to filter the oil at room temperature, it was important for me that condensation did not fall on the oil and dishes for it. To do this, I need to know the temperature and relative humidity in the living area at a given time:
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• I got 24.8 ° C and 18.2%. Using an online calculator 🔗 count the dew point temperature and we get -0.95 ° C.Adds 3 degrees (just in case) and we get that we should not cool the object to a temperature below 2 ° C, so that in these conditions condensation does not fall on it.
• In total, the oil was kept in the refrigerator for 3.5 hours and I evacuated it again within 26 minutes. Boiling slowed down quite a bit, but it did not stop. 0.14 + 0.12 = 0.26 kWh of electricity was consumed for vacuum.
• Sterilization of dishes
• I separate jars and bottles made of borosilicate glass from foreign objects (so that there is only glass) and place empty ones in the microwave oven so that the glass heating temperature is more than at least 110 ° C (the temperature is measured with a pyrometer). After that, I take out the dishes from the microwave, cover them so that dust from the air does not fly inside and let them cool to room temperature.
• For example, 15 bottles of 125ml after 12 minutes of microwave operation acquired a temperature of 100 ° C - 137 ° C.
• Oil filtration, foreword
• I prefer to filter the oil mechanically using disposable paper filters, bleached with oxygen (so that they do not give a "paper" smell and taste), starting from specialized oil filters (purchased in China), for example, a similar plan (almost cardboard):
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• Real uses like filtering cocoa butter:
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• Ending with coffee filters such as Chemex FP-1:
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• The main requirement for such filters is food grade tolerance and mechanical strength. I want to draw your attention to the fact that among the requirements there is no quality of filtration or the size of particles passed by the filter, since, among those filters that came across to me, this parameter was much worse than the filter layer is obtained from a suspension of particles of cake.
• For high-quality filtration of oil, it is important to form a filter layer from a suspension of solid particles of cake (grain debris) and not to destroy it later. In addition, at the very beginning of filtration, suspended paper particles get into the filtrate, which inevitably remain in it during production. In order not to "break" the filter layer, it is impossible to let it dry and noticeably change the conditions of its operation (for example, if filtration is carried out using external pressure / vacuum, then remove this pressure / vacuum for a long time), since if this is not done, then cracks are formed and the filtration quality drops sharply.
• During the degassing / cooling of the oil, large particles settled on the bottom and in the case of flax I try to lift them back by thoroughly stirring the oil just before starting to filter it.
• As a result, I use approximately the following tactics: I start filtering the oil until a filter layer is formed and pure oil comes out. At this moment, I begin to filter the already "finished" product into a new container, and filter the previously filtered oil again, carefully pouring it in so as not to destroy the filter layer.
• Oil filtration
• One of the available oil filtration options: the Hario V60 glass coffee funnel with a native filter, which are used to make filter coffee at home. We take a funnel, put it on a jar, put a filter in the funnel and fill in the pre-mixed oil:
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• I managed to fill in 260.67g of oil.
• Next, consider the option that I now consider to be the main one for myself. Anyone who loves chemistry will immediately notice that we essentially have a variation on the theme of the Buchner funnel and the Bunsen flask. We take aeropress (another device for brewing coffee), cocotte maker (Fissman ss-5279.150), Wax lid and silicone seals from it:
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• As a result of combining this not tricky design, I clamp two filters there (a native one for an aeropress and one cut from a filter for a Chemex of a slightly larger diameter), pour oil and connect a vacuum source:
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• This time, I took an oil-free compressor with swinging pistons as the vacuum source, since there is no need for a strong vacuum and I wanted quiet operation.
• The main difference from the previous version is that, in addition to the gravity force, we use the pressure difference (about 92 kPa) to "push" the oil through the filter, which, despite the noticeably smaller filtration layer area, provides better performance. In other words, this complication is only needed to speed up the filtering process.
• It took 1h 26m after the evacuated oil was poured into the airpress, 1h 53m after the evacuated oil was poured into the Hario V60 and 8.5 hours after I squeezed the oil directly into the bottle (from left to right):
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• After the aero press, the oil is already more transparent and the process is faster than after the V60 funnel, in which the oil is noticeably cloudier (stronger than I was able to show in the photo). In the bottle into which I squeezed the oil directly, in my opinion, everything is rather sad: the effects of aeration are still visible to the naked eye, the largest particles (dark) have settled to the bottom, but the oil is rather cloudy.
• At that moment, I decided that the oil from the aero presses was quite clean and I moved the aero presses to pre-sterilized cans of a suitable volume, carefully filled in the already filtered oil to be filtered again and it turned out something like this:
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• Now filtering oil in an air press no longer requires any special attention and you can go about your business until the moment when all four air presses filter out all the oil filled in them. In total, 3577.1 g of oil was poured into the air presses for filtration.
• 13.6 hours after the oil was filled into the Hario V60, 240.7 g of oil was filtered:
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• And I decided that it was already possible to filter "by finishing": I changed the can for a new one, and I carefully poured the already filtered oil back into the funnel:
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• Oil filtration in an aeropress using vacuum goes on as usual
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• Until the filters become dry, a very small air flow is required to maintain the accumulated vacuum, so it would be reasonable to make the compressor on / off automatically, but I still did not get my hands on this, so the compressor was running constantly while the oil was being filtered. He consumed about 240W while having 0% efficiency (consumption tends to zero), so he converted all this power into heat. For this reason, I tried to spread the oil and the compressor as far as possible, and in the kitchen, where the filtration took place, it became noticeably warm (and I closed the door there so that this air did not spread throughout the apartment).
• After 17h: 10m, 18h: 44m, 19h: 12m, 20h: 15m after the start of the filtration of the "clean" oil in the air presses, all the filled oil was filtered. In total, 3470.54g of oil was obtained, filter layers with 1 airpress filter 80.54g, 4.86 kWh of electricity for the operation of the compressor.
• The filter layer, the first to finish filtering the airport, looked something like this:
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• Please note that when the filter layer began to dry, it moved slightly away from the side walls. In principle, it can be seen that the base of the filter layer consists of rather large particles, and then there is a very fine suspension, which filters the quality we need:
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• The filter layer dries up like this:
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• As a result, all four air presses got:
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• As you can see, linseed oil produces quite a bit of cake. For example, a photo of filtered oil and a filter layer, which turned out on this volume:
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• Here I had to take a break and I evacuated the filtered oil using the Wax caps.
• Meanwhile, in the funnel of the Hario V60, the process was also on the sly:
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• At this point in time, the results were as follows:
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• In principle, the quality of filtration in an aeropress using a vacuum and in a Hario V60 funnel is about the same, the oil that was left to just settle is still much worse.
• 32 hours after the "final" filtration of the oil in V60, the main part was filtered:
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• If the funnel is left in the cabinet for about a week, then almost all the oil will drip:
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• But then a bitter aftertaste begins to appear in the oil.
• If, after a week, we compare the filtered oil with the oil that has been defended all this time:
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• The oil that has settled is noticeably more turbid than the oil that has been filtered and contains white suspended particles that settle very slowly.
• Bottling oil
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• As a result of all the actions, a certain amount of oil was obtained, which I would like to save the greatest amount of time and at the same time be able to use it. At this point in time, I have come to this tactic: to evacuate the oil into a small container, which has been sterilized in advance, which is stored in the refrigerator. This will allow the oil to be kept in the most favorable conditions for it, which will reduce oil deterioration over time and the small container volume will allow keeping open (with access to the oil for oxygen and air moisture) the least amount of product (in a bottle from which it is convenient to pour oil).
• When pouring oil into bottles, I try to minimize aeration - I use an elongated funnel, along the walls of which the oil is drained into the bottle, and pour oil into the funnel along the wall, and not in the middle:
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• I fill in the oil so that its level is in the narrow part of the bottle (to reduce the area of ​​contact between the oil and oxygen in the air). I fill in with some excess:
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• Considering that when you take out the watering can, the volume of oil will decrease slightly. In addition, when I drain the oil from containers in which it has been (for example, in which it was filtered), I try not to drain the residues that have adhered to the walls, since there may be some sediment - I collect and use these residues then.
• I cover the poured and weighed bottle with a lid (but do not click it yet).
• As a result, I got 3604.36g in 30 bottles of 125ml and 70.92g in a bottle with an anti-drip system = 3675.28g.
• Vacuum bottles
• The next step is to provide a minimum amount of oxygen in the oil bottles. I tried several different special vacuum bottle caps, but did not achieve any adequate result with them, as a result, I began to use tow-lock bottles, placing them in a container, pumping air out of it and closing it.
• For this purpose, I began to use an existing flask based on a housing for a water filter (20 ”Big Blue), a vacuum pump and several magnets:
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• I take two bottles with a closed (the drag lock is not closed!) Lid, put it in a container, pump out the air from it:
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• Then I press the bottle caps with magnets
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• And I quickly let air into the container: while I press two magnets down with both hands, my wife abruptly opens the tap. Then the container is unscrewed, it is checked whether the cap has "sucked" to the bottle, and if all is well, then the drag lock is closed. As a result, I got several bottles,

[dimonml]

dimonml, Dmitry, no words! Scientific approach!

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, congratulations on your new device! Wish you luck!

Everything is much easier for me. I got an oil press for home use Household screw oil press Lequip LOP-G3

I am satisfied with the workpieces not in liters on an industrial scale, but in small quantities of living oil, which can be squeezed periodically, and constantly different Home-pressed vegetable oil

Here is linseed oil, still without settling, my first oil, my first experience

Home-pressed linseed oil in a Lequip LOP-G3 oil press (Admin)

Straight scientific article! As a former scientific employee, I take off my hat !!!
Great job.

[dimonml]

dimonml, Dmitry, no words! Scientific approach!

Yes, I totally agree! And, in all honesty, I could not finish reading to the end right away. Somewhere the first third of the work was mastered by all the photos. Soooo informative!

This is a laboratory work - an appendix to a scientific dissertation!

BRAVO, dimonml, Dmitriy!!

And I read everything, however, I did not understand something due to the paucity of knowledge, but I was still impressed, this is what kind of work has been done

And I was most impressed by the degassing! I would never have thought that so much air can be in a freshly squeezed product!

The only but essential thing that spoils this work is that the photos were not inserted according to the Rules for drawing up recipes ...

[dimonml]

dimonml, Dmitriy,

Thank you all for your kind words, very nice!

Congratulations on your new device! Wish you luck!

Thank you very much. I bought the oil press in November of that year, but to be honest, I still have more questions than understanding what and how. Moreover, I tried to find accessible information on this topic and did not succeed very much: there is either advertising information (buy our best oil press and you will be happy, or aggressive advertising of hydraulic presses on wooden barrels, the main feature of which is this very wood , although, if you look at the regulatory documents on the food industry, then wood is a rather problematic material and wherever possible, it is recommended to use stainless (high-alloy) steel), and what and how to do before directly pressing the oil and after it, no one really tells.
Many of the things described in this recipe were "spied" in any "adult" documents or videos. As an example, it was only after reading the recommendations for industry "Fats, Oils and Derivatives, Joint FAO / WHO Food Standards Program" that the funnel for filling oil into bottles could be modified to reduce aerated oils:

🔗

There are similar requirements for the design of tanks for the transportation of oils on tankers.

So I decided to try to compensate for the lack of information on this topic with my findings, which were spied somewhere

Acquired an oil press for home use Household oil press Lequip LOP-G3

I once looked very closely at your oil press and at the attachment for the Sana horizontal auger juicer. Due to the difficulties in supplying from China, Lequip LOP-G3 was not available in Russia that year, in addition, given the experience with melange, I already understood that I would need a capacity of at least a few liters of oil at a time. As a result, I decided to buy my oil press on Ali, with some margin of productivity, despite the fact that it is more expensive than yours and not so "cute")

But, anyway, thank you so much for the link - I missed the appearance of your topics on this resource, although I sincerely believed that I found everything here. You will need to read)

I am satisfied with the workpieces not in liters on an industrial scale, but living oil in a small amount, which can be squeezed periodically, and constantly different

I have demands slightly different initially: I wanted to change my diet to reduce my linoleic fatty acid intake, increase the alpha-linolenic fatty acid content, and keep trans and rancid fats to an absolute minimum. Started with a purchase melangerato make linen urbech, but it so happened that because of its taste, no one really eats it: flax gets wet in the mouth and sticks and this is not very pleasant. But, on the other hand, I was able to learn how to make high quality urbech (much better than I could buy in stores). Now I switched to oils, primarily linseed and chia. Perhaps I will be interested in hemp and ginger a little later. Specifically, I chose these oils because of their fatty acid composition - these are oils in which a large proportion of alpha-linolenic fatty acid (belong to the class ω-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids), and a relatively small proportion of linoleic fatty acid (belong to the class ω-6 polyunsaturated fatty acids). I am also very interested in cocoa butter, since I really liked it as oil for frying and maybe later, hands will reach the production of homemade chocolate from cocoa beans
I also use purchased olive oil for frying, and I purposefully try to exclude all other oils from the diet (although, of course, this is not possible, since there are a bunch of commercial products that use all kinds of the cheapest ones).
That is, quite a few oils are of interest to me.

Further, from my experience with melange and now a little experience with an oil press, I can say for sure that it is not at all a problem to store oil and products containing it at home for at least several months. And this statement applies not only to oils, which themselves slowly deteriorate, such as cocoa butter or ginger butter (both due to the peculiarities of the fatty acid composition, and due to the presence of natural antioxidants in the oil), but relatively really perishable ones. for example, linseed oil.

If you look at this recipe, you can see that it doesn't really matter how much oil I squeeze out at a time: a couple of 125 ml bottles or a few liters, as a result I still get a week (plus / minus a couple of days), since there are stages, the time of which does not change very much with the volume of products. For example, drying of raw materials or oil filtration.

And all this leads me to the desire to make "blanks" in relatively large batches in order to reduce the time spent on a unit of production. And I try to do it both with butter and with urbeches, various marshmallows and other dry stuff - with products that I can store for a long time without any problems and they will not lose quality.

Here is linseed oil, still without settling, my first oil, my first experience

Thank you, read it. So far, my most unforgettable first experience was with the squeezing of cocoa butter from cocoa nibs: almost the whole kitchen is in chocolate. After that, we found places on the wallpaper for a long time, with bits of cocoa.But over time, it began to turn out:

And I read everything, however, I did not understand something due to the paucity of knowledge

With a very high probability, you did not understand due to the fact that I did not express my thoughts in a very accessible way: at some point I got tired of reading and finding mistakes (I did not have enough perseverance) and after a few days I gave up.In addition, as you can see, I'm not very good with the Russian language, which also hinders the assimilation of the material. If something is not specifically clear, ask, I will try to explain it differently (or I will say that I just don’t know / don’t understand).

And I was most impressed by the degassing! I would never have thought that so much air can be in a freshly squeezed product!

For comparison, water (tap or bottled) at room temperature boils in a vacuum for 15 - 20 minutes maximum, while not as intense as oil. And here almost three and a half hours were not enough for the noticeable boiling of the oil to stop.

I initially started playing with vacuuming in order to filter the oil in a vacuum, as it took a long time. And if in the case of flax without additional pressure a day or two is enough, then, for example, in the case of oil from pumpkin seeds or cedar, it takes several weeks. And my attempts to squeeze out the oil, then pour it into the filter and place it all in a saucepan from which to pump out the air, usually failed, as I now understand, for two reasons: the oil initially starts to boil very violently and often it went over the edge and even if this stage is somehow passed (for a long time turning the vacuum on and off), then the oil can boil through the layer of filter material, pushing the cake particles through it! I realized this aspect in cocoa butter, since liquid cocoa butter is very transparent, and cocoa grains are of a characteristic dark color: very large particles of cake sometimes passed through the filter paper due to boiling through it. At the same time, bubbles were clearly visible on the outside of the filter.As a result of all this, I began to degass the oil immediately after the oil press, because if the oil boils, the next time it gets into a vacuum, nothing will boil. It also helps when evacuating bottles at the last stage: I pour them under the neck, not being afraid that foam will go during the evacuation. And, completely free of charge, I get less dissolved gases in the oil while filtering the oil.

[Dmitriy]

and I purposefully try to exclude all other oils from the diet

Dmitriy, thanks for the comment It turned out a very interesting dialogue

I play with the oil press with pleasure, I even stop my "Wishlist" to squeeze out something else. It is very interesting to learn new properties of oils, their taste, abilities, behavior, and effect on the body. And since I suddenly gave up meat, various vegetable oils turned out to be very useful for ingestion, for salads and where you can use them raw

And the big plus turned out to be the use of their oils for cosmetic purposes, instead of purchased creams.This is beyond praise Of course, not all oils, but some are striking in their effect on the skin, and their effect

Therefore, I am personally satisfied with squeezing oil in small portions.
And I must say that oil cake-cake can be perfectly attached to cooking for other purposes, which I am doing with success.

the experience was with the extraction of cocoa butter from cocoa nibs

Dmitry, can you describe in more detail here? From what and how to make it
I would also like to play, especially since I try to make vegan chocolate, and I have chocolate with cocoa butter on my agenda.

Thanks for your experience, advice, examples!

It is very interesting to learn new properties of oils, their taste, abilities, behavior, and effect on the body.

I understand you. I was most impressed by pumpkin seed oil, despite the fact that I do not consider it very good for internal use (but his mother really wanted to get it).


Not only is this oil dichromatic, but also the "Kreft dichromatic index" is the largest known: DI_D=-44.1
When the layer of oil is large (more than two millimeters in thickness), the oil has a bright garnet color, and when the layer is thin, the oil is green. Unfortunately, with my technique I cannot convey what the eyes see, but it looks something like this:

(in reality, a thin layer is bright green, not pale yellowish).

Dmitry, can you describe in more detail here? From what and how to make it

I want to note right away that I have not made "normal" chocolate yet and some of the information will be a little theoretical. I will also write very concisely, since the topic of chocolate is simply huge.

There are trees Theobrōma cacāo (after which the alkaloid of the methylxanthine group was named, theobromine, which was first found in the fruits of this tree), three varieties of Forastero, Criollo and Trinitario (selection of the first and second varieties). Forastero is the cheapest and most common variety: the trees are not whimsical, the harvest is large, etc. Criollo and Trinitario are more interesting for enthusiasts, as they can have a special taste and aroma, but it is better to look at specific beans, since even Criollo can taste like earth. These trees grow fruits (on the trunk), inside of which there are seeds - our cocoa beans. The fruits need to be collected, seeds removed and fermented, then dried - this is done on plantations where cocoa is grown in rather unsanitary conditions. Then these cocoa beans can get to us. Then they are fried, after frying the cocoa beans need to be ground a little and separated from the skin (cocoa vella) - cocoa nibs are obtained. Cocoa nibs can be sent to the production of cocoa butter - they get butter and cake, which is ground
and get cocoa powder, which, being an integral by-product of the production of chocolate, is quite cheap.Going back a little, cocoa nibs can not be used for the production of cocoa butter, but grind (somewhere up to 100 microns) - and get cocoa liquor. As a result, we have three cocoa products: cocoa butter (100% cocoa butter), cocoa powder (somewhere between 11% - 20% cocoa butter) and cocoa liquor (54% cocoa butter), which can be used to produce chocolate. If we increase the proportion of cocoa powder in the chocolate recipe, then we increase the astringency, if we increase the proportion of cocoa butter, then we get a more delicate chocolate. Further, there may be different types of chocolate. For example, for dark chocolate, we need to have at least 34-36% cocoa butter, the rest can be supplemented with cocoa powder and crystalline sugar. As the simplest option, you can take 660 grams of grated and 340 grams of crystalline sugar (do not use powdered sugar for high-quality chocolate), you can get 66% dark chocolate. Cocoa liquor, cocoa powder (if any) are ground (for example, in a melanger), then crystalline sugar is added and everything is ground to a particle size of 18-15 microns. Then it is conched (mixed), then the mass of chocolate is poured and allowed to age a little. Then it is again heated, tempered, poured into molds and allowed to cool. Further packaging of the finished product.

That is, roughly speaking:

• The chocolate tree on which the fruits grow;
• The fruits are picked, get to the seeds, fermented and dried = cocoa beans are obtained;
• Cocoa beans are fried, ground into large particles and the skin is separated (cocoa vellus) = cocoa nibs are obtained;
• Cocoa nibs can be poured into a screw oil press and get cake (turn into fine dust = cocoa powder) and cocoa butter (filtered);
• Cocoa nibs can be ground to a liquid state (particles size 150 microns) = cocoa liquor;
• Cocoa liquor can be thrown into a classic oil press and get a cake (turn into fine dust = cocoa powder) and cocoa butter (filtered);
• You can take cocoa liquor, cocoa butter or cocoa powder, throw everything in melanger, allow to grind, add crystalline sugar, allow to grind, in the same melangere, make conching = chocolate mass;
• Pour the chocolate mass into large containers, let it age a little;
• Heat the chocolate mass, temper it, pour it into molds;
• After the molds have cooled, remove the chocolates / sweets from the mold, pack = dark chocolate.

You can take cocoa butter, milk powder and sugar - we get white chocolate.
You can take cocoa butter, some cocoa powder, milk powder and sugar - we get milk chocolate.
It is better not to put anything containing moisture in cocoa butter - for example, instead of sugar, it may not work to put honey.

It is clear that in the industry for grinding and conching they use more advanced equipment than melanger equipment. It is clear that the required recipe may differ as well as the specific ingredients, but in general it looks something like this.
Regarding the cocoa butter itself, in VkusVill I bought cocoa nibs in small packaging, which was produced by the "Freshcacao Chocolate Manufactory", poured into an oil press, with the heating element turned on (due to the fact that at the beginning I did not want to use it and it turned out " chocolate on the walls "- shot cake from the hole for the oil outlet), received cocoa butter with cake, which was quite a lot in this very oil. Then he filtered the cocoa butter using a paper filter, which was placed in a saucepan, which was placed in a dryer set at 50 ° C so that the butter did not cool during drying. The spin efficiency turned out to be relatively low, but, perhaps, due to the fact that I was doing something wrong. Cocoa butter is made up mostly of saturated fatty acids, so it is hard at room temperature and great for frying. Unlike coconut oil, cocoa butter practically does not give its taste-aroma to what you fry, despite the fact that the cocoa butter itself has a quite noticeable aroma.

There is a user on the forum who is fond of making his own chocolate from cocoa beans on a melange, and if you are interested, perhaps she can describe the process in more detail - ask.

In general, the topic of homemade chocolate from beans is very well covered by John Nanci:

🔗

i try to make vegan chocolate

As I described earlier, cocoa bean fermentation takes place in unsanitary conditions with a large number of different animals, so I recommend that you be very careful when using unroasted cocoa beans. In classic use, cocoa beans are fried, thereby automatically eliminating the problem with bacteria and all sorts of bug / spider larvae, and if the heat treatment is omitted, then, in theory, other measures should be taken to sterilize the raw material.

Nevertheless, I found a video on the Internet about how cocoa butter is pressed from raw cocoa beans on my butter press:


The girl does everything much better than I did

pumpkin seed oil, despite the fact that I do not consider it very good for internal use

.. This is the healthiest oil. I always send it to my mother or bring it, she uses it as a medicine with yogurt or with salads. One thing is that we have oil from black pumpkin seeds .. From Shtria. It is dark dark green in color, very thick and very aromatic. Google if interested. It contains a lot of useful things for both the heart and the liver ..

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, THANK YOU!

I was intrigued by the color of pumpkin seed oil, now I will cook it first, as soon as the stocks of the finished product are slightly reduced.It is very interesting to see it myself.

I understood about cocoa. I found Old on u-tube and a lot, there is plenty to choose from. Somehow I didn’t think about it earlier, apparently I don’t need it.

In our city there is for sale high-quality imported cocoa, I have already tried it, very good quality for my taste.
And you can buy roasted cocoa beans and cocoa butter. I'll try to go this way, buy ready-made and experiment further

THANK YOU!

[Admin]

This is the healthiest oil. I always send it to my mother or bring it, she uses it as a medicine with yogurt or with salads.

Thank you, it is quite possible that I am wrong, but I am confused by its fatty acid composition: pumpkin seed oil contains quite a lot of linoleic fatty acid: 18.1% -62.8% (English Wikipedia source), and there is a lot of it in many products. At the same time, I do not take into account the presence of trace elements and vitamins in the oil. In general, of course, almost every product contains something very useful, something harmful, and something that we have already consumed from other products in sufficient quantities. At the same time, when we ate something, we automatically refused any other products. And as already mentioned Admin, there are quite a few different oils.

One thing is that we have oil from black pumpkin seeds .. From Shtria.

I know very little about where the seeds come from. My mother once asked me: "I'm going to the grocery market with a friend now, buy pumpkin seeds?" Yes, buy, no matter how hard it is to bring. As a result, I had two bags of peeled pumpkin seeds "from China" for a total of 10 kg

very aromatic

In my case, this is not the case: before pressing the oil, I dry the product (in the case of pumpkin seeds, I wash them first, and then dry them) at a rather low temperature, and not fry. Namely, during frying, volatile aromatic substances appear, the very aroma (everyone's favorite Maillard reaction). As a result, my oils are not fragrant at all. Moreover, I very much doubt that anyone will be able to recognize the taste / aroma of sunflower oil, obtained really cold pressed from dried (not fried) peeled sunflower seeds.

Google if interested

Thank you, yes, I'll look. For example, I recently learned that pumpkin is simple, and sometimes it is gymnosperm (its seeds are already "peeled")

The color of pumpkin seed oil intrigued

From old photos, from left to right: pumpkin seed oil, linseed oil, cedar nut oil:


Hemp oil is green and beautiful in its own way (I did not take a photo at the time), but pumpkin seed oil impressed me most of all. Maybe due to the fact that it is obtained from green seeds, maybe due to dichromatism (when I read it in the English Wikipedia, I could not understand for a very long time what this means), but even in the photo, in my personal opinion, there is something so mesmerizing. Although all this may be just emotions that I got the oil myself at home - my brain still does not really understand how liquid oil and rather liquid urbech can be obtained from solid products (almonds in the photo):

[Dmitriy]

I doubt very much that someone will be able to recognize the taste / aroma of sunflower oil, obtained really cold pressed from dried (not fried) peeled sunflower seeds.

Dmitriy, this was my first oil, from fried sunflower seeds, I fried myself in a pan.
There is a smell of seeds, delicious - but not as sharp as that of the market. Homemade oil tastes and smells much softer.
Sunflower oil, pressed on a home oil press

[liquid oil can be obtained from solid products]

but even in the photo, in my personal opinion, there is something so mesmerizing. Although all this may be just emotions that I got the oil myself at home - my brain still does not really understand how liquid oil can be obtained from solid products

In-in! I also had and still does not fit how it is possible from completely dry hemp seeds, or chia, poppy seeds, to get liquid oil, moreover, completely transparent, and in a sufficiently large amount - mysticism and nothing more!
Poppy: from 500 grams, the yield is about 200 ml.
Chia: 130 ml.

[dimonml]

dimonmlDmitry, let me show you pumpkin seed oil from Shtriya, 1 liter of oil costs 19 euros. well it is, for clarity of the price.

There is a smell of seeds, tasty - but not as sharp as that of the market

Have you tried sunflower oil from simply dried peeled seeds? I had no scent at all. On the other hand, even after filtration, during storage in a refrigerator, wax crystallized (in industry, to obtain pure sunflower oil, it is "frozen", since wax and wax-like substances are in a liquid state at room temperature).

By the way, some people like to say "it was better before", arrange hysteria about various innovations (for example, about the harm of GMOs, etc.), but I came across a video "Excursion to the churn: how is it done?", Which has in the description:

Grandfather's ways and methods are the most reliable)
Nothing has changed in 40+ years

To be honest, I rate this video as "tin as it is": there is not only that the product is pre-crushed and it is in contact with atmospheric oxygen for a long time, before the oil is squeezed out of it, the product is also poured with water. which is one of the two worst enemies of oil (causes hydrolytic rancidity). I thought, okay, maybe people just didn't care about the quality of the oil in this particular place, but after that I came across other videos about other workshops where this particular technology was used (it's good that at least there were no wooden barrels - the oil was crushed in the barrel made of stainless steel), and I also came across Soviet descriptions of the technical processes of oil production, where, in all seriousness, after roasting the raw material, it was recommended to saturate it with water in order to increase the efficiency of pressing the oil (something like that the fibers are filled with moisture, swell and as a result, the oil is better squeezed out).

This I mean that there are various recommendations for the production of oil and they often degrade the quality of the product for the sake of other factors: the effectiveness of the oil squeezing, aroma, etc.

Dmitry, let me show you pumpkin seed oil from Shtriya

Thank you! I understand correctly that it is and when the oil layer is thick (more than two mm) has such a dark green color (and not red as in my photo)?

I understand correctly that it is and when the oil layer is thick (more than two mm) has such a dark green color (and not red as in my photo)?

It doesn't matter which layer. It is dark green.
I read it now .. "The liquid has a green tint, and the thicker one is reddish, which is called dichromatism (translated from the Greek" two-color ")." I have never seen this before. We were at the fair a couple of weeks ago, there was a lot of oil from Shtriya, but I did not see the reddish tint. If we still go, next year, then I will definitely focus on this. And there is such oil, then I'll buy it for testing and compare it with what is brought to us from Shtria. The photo shows the oil brought from Shtria, from the manufacturer. Not from the supermarket.

[Dmitriy]

This I mean that there are various recommendations for the production of oil and they often degrade the quality of the product for the sake of other factors: the effectiveness of the oil squeezing, aroma, etc.

Dmitry, that's why (in my understanding) I squeeze out a small amount of oil from 500 grams of seeds, about 100-180 ml. oils. And I keep it in the fridge all the time. In my understanding, without affecting professional technologies and concepts, this is a "living" oil without preservatives, containing the maximum usefulness that seeds-seeds-grains can have at the moment.
And let it be purchased raw materials from the market (there is no other source), all the same, the oil is "live", and I use it only live, in salads, or so pour something, such as mashed potatoes.
I like

And as a cosmetic product ... beyond all praise, I even stopped using purchased creams, so they are made with preservatives. As an example, according to the technology of chia oil, the cream contains 1-4% and is advertised as "chia butter cream", but in fact it is not there, if you read the composition of the ingredients on the label. In my "cream" chia oil is 100%, and the effect is completely different from it
Transfer your mom to natural cosmetics

Today I will try to buy pumpkin seeds, you provoked me with the color of oil, I urgently need to repeat

Whatever one may say, but your homemade butter is very tasty and healthy ... in my understanding

Dmitriy, thanks for the comments, and the dialogue is very informative

Congratulations on your well-deserved victory in the "Best Recipe of the Week" competition

[dimonml]

dimonml, Dmitriy, with an initiative, with the first medal, keep it up!

[dimonml]

dimonml, Dmitriy, congratulations on the first medal!
With great pleasure I read your research about melanger and oil press, I learned a lot! These are not just recipes, but straightforward technological maps. I look forward to new discoveries!

[Dmitriy]

Dmitriy, accept congratulations from me too!

Well, so methodically and in detail is the process of preparing butter ... some emotions
Such preparation, this is how the material is painted, so much knowledge and emotions are invested in the recipe

THANK YOU! I always read with pleasure your comments to butter recipes, very informative!

Congratulations! After reading your post, we decided to buy an oil press!

In my understanding, without affecting professional technologies and concepts, this is a "living" oil without preservatives, containing the maximum usefulness that seeds-seeds-grains can have at the moment.

In this regard, I am slightly shifted and in the oil I see fats (triglycerides of fatty acids), vitamins, trace elements, insoluble impurities, soaps, heavy metal ions (iron, copper, etc.). In addition, the fatty acid composition of fats is important to me: what kind of fatty acids does this or that oil consist of, which for me determines how I will use or not use the oil. All oil in general is also characterized by acid and peroxide numbers, which at least I cannot measure, but I try to make them as small as possible (trying to minimize hydrolytic oxidation, which causes water, and peroxidation, which causes oxygen in the air, as well as reduce the effect of all substances that are catalysts for these processes).And it is mainly for this reason that I decided to "train" on linseed oil, since on the one hand it is quite easy to lead to a rancid state, and on the other hand, the bitter taste (and / or aftertaste) is quite easy, without tools, allows you to determine degree of spoilage: good linseed oil will not taste bitter at all (just like flaxseed urbech), but if you make a mistake while pressing the oil or storing, bitterness already appears.
But all this is not as important as the use of relevant information sources. For example, on the Internet in many places there is a statement that flaxseed oil is better than fish oil (and usually no source of this information is indicated), but if you read how the metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids occurs in the human body, it becomes obvious that this is not true: flaxseed oil cannot replace fish oil, and fish oil (it is better to use fish oil, which is made from meat, and fish liver) cannot replace linseed oil, since they contain different fatty acids (see in details).

As a result, I would like, again, to link to "Fats, Oils and Derivatives, Joint FAO / WHO Food Standards Program":

🔗

B Codex Standard for Edible Fats and Oils for which there are no separate standards (CODEX STAN 19-1981, Rev. 2-1999) -> Appendix. Other parameters of composition and quality -> 1. Quality parameters -> 1.2. Smell and taste (page 10) we have the following formal criteria for virgin / cold-pressed oil, all parameters should be no more than:

• Substances, volatile at 105 ° C: 0.2% by mass;
• Insoluble impurities: 0.05% by weight;
• Soaps: 0.005% by weight;
• Iron (Fe): 5.0 mg / kg;
• Copper (Cu): 0.4 mg / kg;
• Acid number: 4.0 mg KOH / g oil;
• Peroxide number: 15 milliequivalents of active oxygen / kg of oil;

That is, there are quite clear measurable criteria by which we can say whether the oil is "good" or already "not very". Moreover, these criteria are "analog", each of which can have many meanings: that is, even among the oils that meet the value of "no more" in each parameter, you can find oils that are better and which are worse. As a result, in my recipe I tried to explain in detail what each step is for and what benefits it can bring to the final product.

While writing this post, I came across an interesting, in my opinion, article "On the shelf life and quality of oils" for workers in the perfumery industry:

🔗

It builds a "simple" model (described by a system of differential equations) of oxidative reactions, indicating specific catalysts. The most interesting, in my opinion, theses:

It is known that during storage of vegetable oils oxidative processes develop in them, which are based on chain reactions of autooxidation of unsaturated fatty acids.
..
For example, free fatty acids (FFA), which are always present in oils or are formed during its hydrolytic oxidation, can serve as a catalyst for autooxidation. A chain reaction is initiated when any strong oxidant reacts with an unsaturated fatty acid to form a free radical of a fatty acid. In the presence of oxygen, such a radical quickly forms a lipid peroxide radical, which, in turn, easily takes away a hydrogen atom from one of the unsaturated fatty acids to form the radical again.
Then these reactions are repeated - a chain reaction of lipid peroxidation is formed, in which molecules of unsaturated fatty acid and molecular oxygen O act as substrates₂, and in each link of which a lipid hydroperoxide molecule is formed.
..
The technique described in the article makes it possible to significantly simplify and reduce the cost of storage technology for oils, especially those stored in large containers and at low temperatures, often frozen to a viscous or solid state.Experience shows that the most intense oxidation process occurs during periodic opening of the container for taking samples or pouring into another container. When opened, a stream of air rushes into the container, and condensation of the moisture contained in it occurs, especially intensively on chilled oil. This sharply accelerates the process of triglyceride hydrolysis. Therefore, in advance of each opening, it is necessary to heat the container to room temperature for several days. Using the described technique allows you to minimize the number of these lengthy, expensive and harmful to the quality of oil procedures.
...
What is the danger of using low-quality oxidized oils in cosmetic products? The end products of oxidation (ketones, formaldehydes, etc.) not only spoil the appearance and smell of the cosmetic composition. They can eventually be masked with coloring pigments and fragrances. These oxidation products are, among other things, toxic and, as noted, may be carcinogenic. Particularly dangerous are intermediate products of lipid peroxidation of oils, which initiate conjugated oxidative processes in vitamins and other biologically active substances introduced into the composition of oils and cosmetic products based on them. Therefore, the quality of the oil has a significant effect on the stability of vitamins and other biologically active substances (BAS) dissolved in it. In oils with a high peroxide number, a partial or complete loss of the biological activity of these BAS occurs, and the shelf life and effectiveness of the cosmetic composition decrease.
...
Moreover, since the processes of autocatalytic oxidation occur, in principle, in the same way in triglyceride oils and in lipids of cell membranes, oxidized oils with an increased content of peroxides, when applied to the skin as part of a cosmetic composition, stimulate similar undesirable processes in lipids of skin cells, upset the balance between the formation and utilization of free radicals and provoke a chain oxidation process in cells: oxidative stress is the most important factor in premature skin aging.
...
The main requirements for the storage regimes of oils are simple and logically follow from the model of oxidative processes described above: the rate of oxidation of oils during storage can be reduced by decreasing the concentration of active components, for example, by introducing antioxidants, using the known dependences of reactions on temperature, light, etc.
...
The nature of the influence of external factors on the storage process is known: it is advisable to store at low temperatures in a container that is opaque to ultraviolet and visible light. To avoid contact of oil with air oxygen, most well-known suppliers store and supply oils in sealed opaque containers filled with an inert gas, most often nitrogen. All indicators of the quality of oils and expiration dates refer to storage and transportation in such conditions. In practice, the delivery of oils is carried out in barrels with a capacity of 200 kg or 25 kg, and the main violations of storage conditions occur, as noted above, after the barrels are opened and when oils are spilled. At each opening, a new portion of air enters the container, and intensive oxidation of the oil occurs under conditions of a local gas-dynamic flow. At the same time, the quality of the stored oil deteriorates sharply after literally several openings. This is especially true for refined oils, which are most popular in cosmetics, because in the absence of natural antioxidants, any violation of the storage and handling regimes and rules can provoke an oxidative process in the oil.

What does all this give us? Oil rancidity is a self-accelerating process (ultimately exponential) that depends on both the original quality of the oil and how we store and use the oil.Oil that is already severely rancid can act as a strong oxidation catalyst for fresh oil: for example, do not pour fresh oil into a bottle that contains remnants of old, long-used oil. In addition, when we buy oils in a store, we may be more interested in the date of production of the oil than the date "good by", since, all things being equal, the longer the oil stays in unsuitable conditions for it (warm, in the light, in a bottle with oxygen, already a little rancid during production, etc.), the more it goes rancid.

Congratulations on your well-deserved victory in the "Best Recipe of the Week" competition

Thank you very much! I sincerely believed that the topic of "home" oil would not be interesting to anyone. Also thanks to everyone who supported me in this thread: it's very nice.

This is a treatise, this is the work done!
I am reading your observations with great interest.
Thanks for the links to interesting information, I read some things out loud to those interested.

Congratulations on your well-deserved victory!

Using cake after pressing flaxseed oil on a home oil press

[dimonml]

dimonml, read you and also became interested in this technique, can you throw off the link, who bought this device from?) Thank you!

[one]

who bought this device from?)

I bought here:

https: //www.aliexpress.co.../2906213_32517611269.html

Model "CZR309 1500watt"

I'm pretty sure that this oil press can also be bought on this site:

🔗

There you can also download the instruction, which one-to-one coincides with the one that came with my oil press.
Please note that the oil press, apparently, is in reality with a 400W motor. But, nevertheless, the motor there, at least judging by the dimensions and video work, is noticeably more powerful than, for example, Complete Media OP-1:

🔗

My personal advice: if you buy on Ali only in the store where there are pictures of the insides (you can estimate the power and type of the engine), and where all the pictures show one and the same oil press !!! For example, many sellers steal photos from the seller, the link to which I gave - some of the photos from there, some of the photos from another oil press - this can be seen if you look closely, since the oil presses have in reality a different design, despite the fact that they look very similar (have the same body).
I also ask you to pay attention to Chinese oil presses, like L'equip LOP-G3 (there are many of them under different brands) - judging by the reviews, it's a pretty good home unit.

I bought here:

Model "CZR309 1500watt"

Dmitry, is the auger really made of stainless steel? magnetically? is the press made in China?

Dmitry, is the auger really made of stainless steel?

Yes, from stainless steel.
Initially, I had several places with corrosion on the auger - inside the square, which is put on the protrusion of the gearbox from the main unit, several points at the beginning of the working area of ​​the auger. I assume that due to violations of metal processing technology (local overheating). New stains did not form (although I wash everything in the dishwashers) and I did not pay much attention to this topic, since it is noticeable from the auger and the squeezing basket that this is handicraft production. For example, the pictures show that the same Sana Oil Extractor EUJ-702 is made much more accurately.

magnetically?

Now checked: Yes.
But I do not quite understand why this question is: one and the same stainless steel may or may not have magnetic properties. Even within the same product.

is the press made in China?

I guess yes.

For example, the pictures show that the same Sana Oil Extractor EUJ-702 is made much more accurately.

Yes, I'm thinking where to buy non-handicraft production? Have you experimented yet for what crops to do cold pressing and what% of oil did you get?

in general, stainless steel should not be magnetised, I remember this from childhood

Yes, I'm thinking where to buy non-handicraft production?

I dont know. The market for household oil presses is quite small, so you have to choose from a rather small number of options.
I needed some flexibility in the choice of oil extraction modes. Also, after watching the video Complete media OP-1

I realized that if I want an oil press with an asynchronous motor, then it should be noticeably more powerful than that of Complete media OP-1: note how the author of the video suffers with flax seeds - the oil press obviously does not pull. At the same time, flaxseed is not the most "hard" crop for an oil press. Hemp seeds, for example, are noticeably harder to squeeze.
As a result, there were not so many different options for purchase. I spoke with the owner of the Sana Oil Extractor EUJ-702
Where I was not really recommended for purchase, although, from a purely outward appearance, it is a very solid product.
With my oil press, I got an engine with enough power to squeeze the crops I need, namely flax, chia, hemp (although in the case of hemp, the power is right next to it), I got even without temperature control, but I controlled the heating of the squeeze basket and the ability to adjust the pressure in the chamber extraction using pads for screw fastening of the extraction basket. As a result, I am satisfied with my oil press, since I really need such flexibility.
Calling the oil press ideal is definitely not, but I was able to achieve the result I needed from it. And now I do not remember that something very much infuriated him.

The only thing that I definitely cannot recommend for purchase: the Piteba manual oil press, as it is made of ordinary (rusting) steel and it is manual.

and you experimented for some other cultures

I tried it a couple of times from soft crops - peeled sunflowers and pine nuts. In general, nothing really came out for me. But I didn't really try, since these crops are not interesting to me (I do not consider the above oils to be components of a healthy diet). I pressed pumpkin seed oil - everything seems to be fine, but so far I have not launched a large batch. The only thing is that there are a lot of particles in the oil, which are difficult to filter.
The main crops I need: flax, chia and hemp squeeze out subjectively well.
I haven't experimented in detail, but I'm sure I can squeeze the cocoa nibs and pumpkin seeds well.

cold pressed

And here there is a certain problem: what exactly do you mean by the term "cold pressing"? For example, by adjusting the size of the exit slot on my oil press without external heating, I can get the temperature of linseed oil at 35 ° C, as in this recipe, or 55 ° C. And I can squeeze the flaxseed cake and the oil temperature will be over 110 ° C. Once again, without any external heating, only due to the energy that is obtained by rolling and squeezing the flax seeds inside the squeezing basket.
And it is for this undocumented opportunity - to change the pressure in the squeezing basket, I really love my oil press, since it allows me to get the squeezing parameters I need for a given crop, primarily the temperature of the outgoing oil.

The instructions for my oil press say that if you do not fry the raw materials before pushing them into the oil press, then it will be cold pressed. It doesn't matter if the heating is on or not. And within this framework, I can get both frankly bitter flaxseed oil, and oil, in which there will be no bitterness at all. In general, in real life it turns out that the phrase "cold pressed" does not mean anything at all and is just a marketing gimmick.

what% of oil did you get?

The only normal spin that I can answer is pressing chia seeds... You can read all the numbers in the post I mentioned, but in general, for chia, the efficiency came out less than for flax and amounted to about 20%.

But I want to note that I do everything to reduce the efficiency: I dry the seeds at a moderate temperature (and do not fry them), where possible I use a minimum of external heating (I stung chia and flax seeds without a heating element at all), I noticeably increase the size of the cake outlet to reduce the pressure in the squeeze basket. As a result, I get oil with practically no aroma (which is obtained from high temperatures) and with low efficiency.But on the other hand, it comes out as not bitter as possible (a little rancid). That is, for me the most important criterion is the high quality of the oil I receive, and what is the efficiency already obtained.
In addition, a lot depends on the raw material: if the same flax seeds have been lying in unsuitable conditions for several years, they will be noticeably poorly squeezed out. For example, in this recipe I used the seeds of this year and they squeezed noticeably better than the "exactly the same" seeds bought in the same place and under the same brand, but the harvest of the previous year, already lying down.

in general, stainless steel should not be magnetised, I remember this from childhood

Your knowledge is incomplete.

Read, for example, Stainless Steel on Wikipedia:

🔗

Stainless steel is a steel that contains a certain amount of alloying components, primarily chromium: a layer of resistant oxide is obtained on the surface of such steel, which protects (passivates) the steel from oxidation.
Stainless steel can have different phase states: martensitic, ferritic, austenitic and their combinations. It is from the phase state of the alloy that the magnetic properties of stainless steels also depend.
If you want to dive deeper, either google it or read a materials science textbook.

As an example, I can give any stainless steel knife: it will magnet. The bottom of any stainless steel pan that is suitable for induction hobs will magnetise. I have an induction multicooker and a stainless steel bowl and also magnetise perfectly. Moreover, I have an induction milk frother, its bowl on the sides is magnetised (where there is induction heating), but not at all from below, since there, with the help of a magnet, the whisk is twisting through the bowl.


Once again: in the photo there is one stainless steel part, which in certain places it has good magnetic properties, but at the bottom there is no magnetic properties at all.

Thank you for the information, judging by all the experience you got a lot of oil!

[Kit]

Kit, right. Dmitry conducted a whole study. It was very interesting to read.

Dmitry, do you rinse the seeds before pressing?

Dmitry, do you rinse the seeds before pressing?

Depends on.
I don’t wash the flax and chia seeds, as they become covered with mucus, which cannot be removed later. At all. The seeds will germinate / mold but will not dry out.

The rest, for example, the seeds of pumpkin seeds, I try to rinse: just with water, to the point that the water in which the seeds float stops changing color due to contamination of the seeds. But I want to note that immediately after washing, I dry the seeds in a dryer. Alternatively, if you care less about usefulness / harm than aroma / efficiency, then you can fry them.

If I needed to harvest seeds / nuts without a drying stage, then I would not wash them at all: moisture, along with oxygen in the air, is the worst enemy of oils and I do my best to reduce its amount in the finished product.

Although I am aware that in production, in order to increase efficiency, immediately after frying and grinding, they can write raw materials with moisture / steam (the cell swells due to water / steam and during the pressing process the cells with oil are squeezed more strongly, which leads to a higher spin efficiency). But I repeat once again, there are many things that can increase the efficiency of obtaining oil by impairing its consumer properties.

I am more confused by the seeds that came from India, China, it is not clear there how they are processed, and what kind of cleaning procedure they go through

In Russia, there are enough of their own Internet shops of quality seeds from producers, look - especially in Altai.

About the quality of the seeds (see testing):

QUALITY OF RAW MATERIALS AND QUALITY OF OIL
The quality of pressing the oil is greatly influenced by seeds, nuts, their quality, types and their properties, the ability to squeeze.
For example:
- walnut spin efficiency (efficiency) 36-42%
- rapeseed 23-30%
- flax 30-34%
- sunflower 40–46%
- sesame 37-45%
- peanuts 36-42%

The quality of pressing is influenced by the quality of seeds, their freshness. There are cases when initially grain-seeds are sold that have already undergone primary processing, i.e. oil has already been squeezed out of them by the method of "solvent extraction of oil from oilseed material"... In practice, we buy seeds intended simply for eating, or for re-pressing the oil, the quality of which will be low and in the smallest volume. This can be compared to decaffeinated coffee, when the coffee beans are whole and have little caffeine.

The quality of the extraction and the amount of oil pressed are influenced by properties of the seed-nuts themselves.
The quality of oil such as walnuts, pine nuts, Brazil nuts will have a high percentage of fat (up to 20-30%) and a large sediment suspension, which will settle slowly, and the amount of pure oil will be small.
Or flax or chia seed oil, which gives excellent results, and the oil yield is very good, with 500 grams of seeds yield about 150-180 grams.
There are very dry seeds, such as milk thistle, the oil is squeezed out well, but the oil yield is less, with 800 grams of seeds the yield is about 200 grams.

All these nuances and subtleties are known only in the process of practical use of the oil press, with experience what and where to buy seed-nuts, and what can be expected specifically from each type of seed-nuts.

I am more confused by the seeds that came from India, China, it is not clear there how they are processed, and what kind of cleaning procedure they go through

It depends on the supplier, on the price, etc. Generally speaking, in an ideal world, any peeled seeds / nuts should already be well processed in production, if only to keep them from going to waste in storage.
I would divide the pollution into two large groups: just dirt / husk and organic (mold spores, bacteria, etc.). The first one can be defeated quite well by washing before drying / roasting. The second is more complicated.
Before exporting from the country, before being loaded onto ships, everything and everyone must be disinfected without fail. There is not only mold, but also bugs / spiders. Again, if this is not done, then the product will simply disappear while sailing. Here, some problems can only be with certified organic raw materials, since this certification prohibits the use of conventional effective disinfectants and only expensive options remain (for example, placing products for three days in an inert gas, such as carbon dioxide CO2), and sometimes with good by-products effects (deep freeze for several days).
Good importers, if the product is supposed to be used without heat treatment, can do some disinfection themselves after unloading the transport ships. But, for example, normal people roast cocoa beans before use, so it is quite easy to buy a bag of something live cocoa beans, especially considering the slave labor that is used during the collection / processing of this whole business, the complete lack of hygiene and knowledge in this area.
Besides, I've already come to the conclusion that it is quite important what and how to buy. Already now I am trying to buy raw materials in individual packages, and not by weight, since in the latter case the raw material is long and it is not clear how and by whom it is poured, lies, etc. Mom bought pumpkin seeds in Auchan: in spite of the fact that they were there by weight, she made sure that she was taken out as much as 10 kg plastic bags. The seeds, like all other seeds / nuts sold in local Auchan, turned out to be quite lousy quality, but at least in a package.

I had a case when hazelnut urbech got moldy after a few months of standing in the refrigerator. And I very much doubt that I brought something into the product myself, since I follow the hygiene conditions during cooking quite scrupulously

and before drying, I washed the nuts, and for a couple of hours my wife and I took out completely rancid nuts (of which there were many).

In general, this is all I need: the easiest way to protect yourself is to find adequate suppliers of raw materials who sell in relatively small packaging, but without opening it and buy there. I have long come to the conclusion that the price is far from the only and important parameter, including seeds / nuts. And personally, I try not to buy products that are manufactured and prepared using dumb and outdated technologies, like certified organic.

If you still want to buy raw materials as cheaply as possible, then it may be worthwhile to study what and how to disinfect and acquire the appropriate skills / equipment.

[Dmitriy]

which sell in relatively small packaging

Dmitriy, small packaging will not protect against quality and harmfulness inside the packaging, some will certainly "shoot". Not so long ago I came across a package sent on the Internet, in which they felt great ... white fat worms, and alive
The money was returned to me ... but, the sediment remained

For myself, I concluded that it is worth buying from producers of grain, seeds, which sell their products themselves, their own Internet shops. Then you can buy in large packages, which will be much cheaper than small packages.
And the shopping time is autumn-winter, after the new harvest, which can partly guarantee the freshness of the grain-seeds.

I doubt very much that I brought something into the product myself

Bacteria, including fungi and mold, live in the air, especially in the kitchen
This is confirmed by the bread leavens that we grow ourselves. It is enough to put flour (wheat and rye) mixed with plain water in the kitchen for a while, and soon we will get a sizzling-boiling mass with gurgles on the surface. And then we begin to domesticate it, until it is suitable for baking

Dmitry, small packaging will not protect against quality and harmfulness inside the packaging, some will definitely "shoot".

Yes, I agree with you, if you initially pack a poorly prepared product, then anything can happen. But this packaging will reduce spoilage and contamination of raw materials during months of lying on the display / under the counter on the market.
Here you go to Auchan and there are open containers with nuts / seeds. Even if you do not look at the often poor initial quality, it is not clear what and with what hands he touched it before. All things being equal, I try to avoid such places.

The money was returned to me ... but the sediment remained

And rightly so, about the sediment. If there were worms, then they do not have a technological stage, which is designed to "kill all living things" (or there is, but in fact does not work). And from this it follows that there may be many different living organic contaminants in the raw material.

For myself, I concluded that it is worth buying from producers of grain, seeds, which sell their products themselves, their own Internet shops. Then you can buy in large packages, which will be much cheaper than small packages.
And the shopping time is autumn-winter, after the new harvest, which can partly guarantee the freshness of the grain-seeds.

Yes, I come to about the same. Only here you need to "test" suppliers and make forecasts for the required volumes.

In general, the search for quality raw materials is a separate art)) For example, in this recipe I used flax, which I bought in 200g bags - the main reason was that I tried flax there and I really liked it. Therefore, I tried to buy exactly this one (I had to bypass a lot of different tastes, since there usually are 3 - 6 packs of linen), and did not look for other options, because, this year, linen turned out to be very cool in these stores. And before that there were many other options with which I suffered a lot, for example, removing garbage and seeds of other crops.

it is not clear what and with what hands he touched this before.

...and who jumped on them, which of the living creatures with My own eyes saw several times galloping (and dried) cockroaches over nuts and dried apricots. And there are times when even at home, food moths appear in the dried fruits laid out in jars, which means the entire jar of dried fruits completely goes into the trash bin to rinse such dried fruits for further use, there is no desire

Bacteria, including fungi and mold, live in the air, especially in the kitchen

Yes, they do. But the question is quantity. I did urbechi earlier and later. I made them using approximately the same technique. And all urbeches were perfectly stored in the refrigerator for over a year without any problems.
And here there is some correlation: there were a lot of rancid nuts in the hazelnuts. And the hazelnut urbech quickly became moldy when stored in the refrigerator in different jars. This certainly does not prove causation, but one point.

Plus, I bother a little about the ecology in the apartment: I have supply ventilation with filtration of the outside air (windows are usually always closed), sometimes I use an ultraviolet lamp with ozone generation, etc. All this, naturally, does not kill all living things, but in general it makes the situation much better.

And there are times when even at home, in the dried fruits laid out in jars, a food moth appears

By the way, I put nets for my mother in her 1000 bottom, on the air intake grilles, so that at least large bugs / spiders do not make their way into the dryer during its operation. She uses it in the country and there are many who want to "encroach". I don't know how effective it is, but to calm down I decided to do it.

rinse such dried fruits for further use, there is no desire

I don't know how effective this can be, but you can vacuum it (remove air with moisture) and place it in freezers for a couple of weeks. Some organic coffee producers do this: and thereby "kill" green coffee, which affects the taste in the cup quite noticeably, since after defrosting green coffee, it must be roasted immediately. Although the bugs that live in my dust, they calmly worried about the freezer:

You take one out of the freezer, and after a couple of minutes this thing starts to crawl again.

[started to crawl again]

Pull this out of the freezer, and this thing in a couple of minutes started to crawl again.

Tenacious, however!

This time, I took an oil-free compressor with swinging pistons as the vacuum source, since there is no need for a strong vacuum and I wanted quiet operation. The main difference from the previous version is that, in addition to the gravity force, we use the pressure difference (about 92 kPa) to "push" the oil through the filter, which, despite the noticeably smaller filtration layer area, provides better performance.

Hello, tell me which compressor model are you using? Or specify an analogue of the model.

[dimonml]

dimonml, I take off my hat, you did a pretty good job, you still need a cylinder of inert gas in the kitchen, so that when oil drips or runs along the surface, gas comes out of the tube and there is no contact with oxygen.

For comparison, water (tap or bottled) at room temperature boils in a vacuum for 15 - 20 minutes maximum, while not as intense as oil. And here almost three and a half hours were not enough for the noticeable boiling of the oil to stop.

What kind of vacuum do you mean? Maybe this water is boiling and sublime, then why does it stop boiling?

Boiling slowed down quite a bit, but did not stop.

What if this boiling is caused by the sublimation of any fatty acids?

13.6 hours after filling the Hario V60 with 240.7 g of oil filtered

here, too, a gas, for example nitrogen, would not interfere, so that while the oil is standing, there was a layer of nitrogen above it to prevent oxidation.
What is the result in the future? How much did you improve the shelf life of the oil? Did the seeds taste bitter, did the oil taste bitter, after what time did it start to taste bitter? The filtration was due to, as far as I understand, the dark color of the oil and turbidity? And if you used the advertised cold-pressed barrels, because the oil would be lighter, then you wouldn't have to filter?
And one more thing, if the oil were left unfiltered for a while, then all the turbidity would have settled - including hydrated phospholipids - they are just contained in the sediment washers in an amount of 9% after filtration, and freshly squeezed oil unfiltered as - it is also recommended to use it because of the large amount of phospholipids.
Judging by the photo, your container is transparent, but in some sources they write that the container should be dark, was your choice due to something?