GRAIN BREAD (GRAIN BREAD)
(From the book V. Mikini "Guide to bakery and yeast production" 1912, St. Petersburg.)
Making bread from grain should be understood literally, that is, the transformation of whole grains directly into dough without first crushing them into flour.
In many baking manuals, such as Lesgaft's, whole grain bread is mistakenly referred to as making bread with bran flour. Such a vague expression can be confusing. Kneading the dough from fine flour, peeled from bran and from coarse flour, not sifted, is essentially no different.
A completely different matter is the preparation of bread really from whole, that is, uncrushed grain, the production of dough from which has nothing in common with ordinary grain production.
The idea of making bread straight from a whole grain with all its bran and all its bran could only have arisen at a time when, as indicated in the previous chapter, the prevailing belief was that bran is wholesome and nutritious.
The appearance of this method cannot be viewed as a step forward in technology; on the contrary, it is nothing more than a return to the primitive method. As mentioned in the first part of this book (in the history of baking) in ancient times, such as among the Phoenicians, the dough was obtained from a mixture of half-crushed grain with water. This principle is the basis of the named method of preparing whole grain dough, as will be described in detail below.
This method first appeared in France in the 60s, when a certain merchant A. Sezille took the privilege of making bread directly from grain, without first crushing it into flour. In general terms, this method, called "grain panification", is as follows:
First, the grain is soaked for 1/2 hour in water in order to wash off the adhering dust, and most importantly, to soften the outer shells. Then it is passed through a brush machine, where the dirt is wiped off with brushes. From there it went to a peeling machine, consisting of a drum, the inner side surface of which was covered with a perforated iron sheet, in the manner of a grater. The grain, falling into this rotating drum, was frayed due to centrifugal force on the inner rough surface, and the (fruit) shell of the grain was peeled off. The hatched grain (white and clean) entered the fermentation tank, where liquid (10%) sourdough was placed, which was already in a state of fermentation for about a day at a temperature of + 25 to 30 C. Here the grain was kept for about 8 hours, moreover, in the grain itself the same chemical processes occurred from the action of the leaven as in the dough during fermentation, that is, part of the insoluble starch turned into soluble dextrin, the gluten softened and partly dissolved, part of the mineral salts also passed into solution. As a result of all these processes, the grain got wet, swelled and became soft and viscous. In this form, it entered a crushing machine, consisting of a pair of smooth shafts, between which the grain was passed, and it was crushed into a common dense mass, in which, however, individual swollen grains can be distinguished. It was this mass that served as a dough for baking bread. Previously, it was diluted somewhat with water with the addition of sodium chloride and was subjected to a second fermentation, after which, as usual, loaves were formed from it and bread was baked. With this method, wheat bread turned out to be white in appearance and rather loose.In terms of taste, it was inferior to the ordinary one, since it resembled porridge and not bread, and besides, which is very important, sometimes whole grains (not accidentally crushed) came across in the crumb, which greatly spoiled the taste. But for that, it cost less than usual, since the grinding disappeared, and with it extra transportation, loading and unloading; then the heat increased by over 30%. Therefore, this method seemed to have a brilliant future. But reality did not justify these hopes. Cecille's Bread did not find sympathy in France and his bakery soon ceased to exist. The French Ministry of War, where he turned with a proposal for his method, appointed a commission to comprehensively study this issue. The commission investigating this method found that the bread obtained by this method is very coarse (in appearance), tasteless and contains a significant amount of non-nutritive substances. Cecil's bread contained almost all the bran, the yield of which did not exceed 3%, while the ordinary soldier's bread in France was made from flour, from which about 15% of the bran was removed.
Cecil's method, meanwhile, appeared at that time in print, for example, in our Military Collection of 1872 (vol. 86, part 1, page 333) and attracted the attention of the military leadership.
Therefore, it was considered by us in the Technical Committee of the Main Quartermaster Directorate, where Lesgaft made a report on this, who was instructed to make a test baking of rye bread using this method. For this, rye was washed, urinated, peeled on a Henkel-Sekka peeling machine and, after fermentation, crushed on grooved rollers. The resulting mass of crushed grain was kneaded with water, to which table salt was added, on a Vikgorst kneader, after which it was molded into loaves and baked in Vikgorst ovens. The flaws in it were found to be the same as in France, that is, mainly gustatory. It tasted rough and contained many uncrushed grains, which made it an unpleasant food product. The latter circumstance was explained by the imperfection of the grooved roller machine, and therefore it was decided to repeat the experiment, replacing this machine with Hermann's French grain-pressing machine, and consisting of three stone shafts with notches. But this experience also gave the same negative results.
In 1874, Cecile's method appeared in Austria, where the military department also became interested in him, which ordered an experiment in baking according to this method in a Vienna grocery store, where apparently also a negative result was obtained, since there was no repetition of the experiment.
We already began to forget Cecile's method, when suddenly in 1875 the General Office of the Quartermaster received an application from a certain Zarin, who suggested trying the method of baking from whole grain that he had invented. Upon application, a sample of bread was attached, which turned out to be well baked, but containing individual, uncrushed grains, as in Cecile's bread. The amount of moisture in the bread was also significant - about 51% in the crumb and 30% in the crust.
According to the inventor, his method gave no less and no more than 100% heat. A. Zarin claimed a patent for his invention in the Department of Trade and Industry, where he points out the drawbacks of Cecil's method that he eliminated, namely:
1. The use of fermented liquid for the grain locks and its draining together with the nutritious parts that have passed into it from the grain,
2.pouring the whole amount of water and salt to the crushed grain, at one time and fermenting the whole dough at the same time, why it turns out to be vague and poorly baked,
3. Peeling of grain, in which part of the nutrients is lost, etc.
Zarin's method was as follows: After thorough washing, which removed: litter, harmful impurities and dirt adhering to the shells, the grain was soaked for 24 - 30 hours in room water. Sufficiently soaked grain was crushed by a grain-pressing machine.Raschin was prepared using water from a padlock with an addition of sourdough and a part of the crushed grain, to which, as fermentation proceeded, the rest of the dough was added in three steps, from which, as usual, bread was baked. Peeling of grain was allowed by Zarin only for baked (rye) or white bread, while black bread should be baked from whole grain in order to preserve the diastases contained in the shells.
In his statement, A. Zarin promised to give the treasury huge annual savings, if his method was adopted.
The Technical Committee decided to test Zarin's method not only by baking bread, but also with experimental food from one company of L.-GV. Izmailovsky regiment in March 1876 (within 50 days).
A total of 30 baked goods were produced, of which 20 showed the presence of individual grains, and 16 baked goods showed hardening. The loaves contained about 46% water. The solder turned out not 100% of course, but as usual, about 45%.
In terms of density, grain bread was 30% heavier than ordinary bread. In terms of storage capacity, it did not differ from ordinary. In terms of physical properties, grain bread was inferior to flour bread, less porosity and tasted worse, as a result of which the soldiers ate it reluctantly.
Simultaneously with these experiments in the hygienic laboratory of St. Petersburg. The Military Medical Academy conducted a comparative experiment on the digestibility of grain and ordinary bread, both on humans and on dogs, and the food was given mixed.
Based on the research, the experimenters came to the following conclusion:
but). the replacement of flour bread with cereals resulted in a decrease in the digestibility of dry matter and nitrogen in food;
b). the absolute digestibility numbers turned out to be much higher in a person accustomed to plant foods;
in). the change in bread apparently did not affect the nitrogenous economy.
Since the chemical composition of grain and flour bread is very similar (in grain - 51.71% dry matter and 7.929% nitrogen; in malt - 52.57% dry matter and 8.028% nitrogen), researchers attributed the worst digestibility of grain bread to its physical properties. : it contained many uncrushed grains that appeared unchanged in the excrement. In addition, the grain mill did not break or grind the shells, as millstones do, but only crushed the grains, displacing the core from the shells and turning the latter into flattened cakes. In such a rough form, the shells were supposed to irritate the intestinal walls and cause increased peristalsis (rapid movement and excretion of food) and, as a result, its less digestibility ”.
Both experimenters came to the conclusion that grain bread is not only digested worse than flour bread itself, but even in its presence the rest of the food (with a mixed diet) is digested worse than with ordinary bread.
In the summer of 1876, in Krasnoye Selo, during the camp, a second test of Zarina's grain bread was made on an even larger scale, with which 4 regiments of the 22nd Infantry Division and a small part of the Guards were content, for which 1,585 poods of rye were released. The grain was pre-sorted and peeled on a Secca machine with 2.5% waste. Solder = 48.25%.
The commission came to the following conclusion:
1) the bread sent to the troops was unsatisfactorily baked, too superfluous and contained whole grains;
2) therefore, the lower ranks declared dissatisfaction with the bread;
3) with more careful mechanical processing of grain and baking bread in an ordinary Russian oven, it turned out to be more successful;
4) the short duration of the experience, the haste in the preparation of bread and the insufficiently strictly drawn parallel in the baking of grain and flour bread, require long experience in the introduction of the necessary mechanical improvements on the part of the grain press and the improvement of ovens. For the search for improved grain-pressing machines, Zarin was given 3,000 rubles.
In 1882 one car was delivered to them, but it turned out to be unsatisfactory after preliminary testing; the other car, despite repeated repetitions by the Intendanstvo, Zarin did not deliver.
Private bakeries in Moscow and Saratov, arranged according to the Zarin principle, were also not successful and soon ceased to exist.
From 1882 to 1890, the issue of grain baking stalled, but in 1890 Dr. Kareev reported at a meeting of the Technical Committee that, having set himself the goal of improving grain baking, he came up with 3 ways to achieve this:
1) after washing and 18 - 20 hour lobes, the grain is crushed between shafts rotating in the opposite direction to each other, which will crush the shell, crushing it into small particles,
2) washed, but not completely soaked grain is ground in an ordinary hand mill to obtain dough,
3) further processing of the test does not differ from the previously used one. Simultaneously with the proposal of Dr. Kareev so far. Zykov proposed an improved method for baking bread from grain, which consisted mainly in the device of a grain-pressing machine, in which the grain with shells was ground. This method was tested in the Izmailovsky regiment.
In the same year, the Department of Trade and Manufactures received applications for a privilege for the method and machine for baking grain from A. Golovin and otst. since. Zykov. It turned out that both machines for which the privileges were requested were the same in structure: each consisted of an iron cylindrical casing, openable in length, with one solid bottom and the other perforated. In the casing, on a rotating shaft, knives were set, separated by plates; these knives moved between fixed knives, fixed on the inner surface of the casing. From the side of the perforated bottom, the shaft ended with a screw. A grain receiver is located at the other end of the cylinder. Getting from the receiver into the machine, the grain is broken by knives and moved to the end of the machine, where it is captured by the screw and forced through the perforated bottom. In 1892, grain baking was organized in Riga by Gelink, whose bread turned out to be well baked from fermented dough, nostril, pleasant smell and taste, although some whole grains were found in the crumb; water in a loaf on the 6th day for baking was determined to be 44.5%. The Military Council decided to order 2 machines from Gelinka: one large for the Vilna military bakery, another small with a manual drive, and to carry out a two-month experiment in supplying the troops of the Riga garrison with Gelinka grain bread.
A commission was sent to Zykov's bakery, which found the following: the washed grain is soaked for 10 - 12 hours in a liquid containing a certain amount of old dough and yeast. The grain is soaked and fermented, after which it is choked by a machine, similar to an American meat grinder, equipped with smaller holes; The grain poured into the funnel is partly crushed by a rotating screw against the inner riffles, partly cut with 4 knives and pressed through the flange holes with the screw. The manual machine works quite hard, producing only 20 pounds of dough per hour. When analyzing Zykov's grain bread, made by Dr. Dobriansky, it turned out: water - 42.29%, protein - 11.36%, fat - 0.32%, fiber - 1.23%, carbohydrates - 43.6%.
Experience in the Grenadier Regiment did not follow Zykov's failure to deliver a car.
The experience of the food of the Riga garrison from December 2, 1893 to February 2, 1894 with grain bread made in the Gelinka bakery gave the following results.
The lower ranks ate bread with gusto, eating the entire three-pound portion in the first week; in the second week, 1.2 pounds were undernourished; finally, from the 3rd week, there was a malnutrition of 1 pound per soldier. Weighing the people gave no definite indication: along with a 1 to 1.5 pound increase in weight, there was a similar drop in weight. In sanitary terms, the result was very satisfactory: no intestinal diseases were observed.All reports also confirm that grain bread did not stale or mold longer than flour bread.