By the way, desem in Holland and in the north of Belgium, Flanders, they call sourdoughs in general, and sourdoughs based on sourdoughs:
desembrood (sourdough bread),
natuurdesem (natural sourdough, that is, not with yeast, but from a spotted fermented dough),
zuurdesem (sour sourdough, that is, not a yeast dough, but a sourdough dough)
Thanks to the efforts of fighters for the correct, as natural as possible nutrition - Japanese macrobiotic and New Age vegetarian in the second half of the 20th century, later - the modern movement for unhulled whole foods and whole grains in bread - the word desem began to denote sourdoughs on whole wheat, for baking from plain wheat flour or meal or dispersed wheat grain.
The peculiarity of the desems popular nowadays in the West is that they are exceptionally cool and swaddled in tight fabric bags, tightened with a string, so that the sourdough dough cannot grow in volume like Italian sourdough bigi.
Desem is characterized by the aroma of cider and calvados, apple, slightly cognac-alcoholic, for polbyanny desem - creamy-apple-vanilla. It's hard to describe, the scent of green apple peel and creamy curd, the unique scent of the leavening yeast in the desem - the aroma 2,3 methylbulyl acetate ... It is instantly recognizable because it gives out the moment when the desem is ready.
The inflatedness and tightness of the tissue bag is used to judge the activity of desem in it. If the bag is tight and stubborn, then the desem is ripe and active and can be used. And if it is limp, then the desem ate all the food, calmed down and fell asleep, then it needs to be activated before using it to ferment dough or bread dough.
Desems are cold starters, they are removed from a mixture of grain or grains with water at low temperatures, at 10-18C. They are fermented (fed and allowed to mature, prepared for baking with them) at 16-21C. And they are stored at 4C (3-7 days, then they need to be fed again, refreshed at 16-21C) .. And they include sourdoughs on any kind of wheat - ordinary bakery, spelled, camute and so on. Wheat and spelled desems are the most widely popular in Europe.
In desem, leavening yeast makes up 2% of the total microflora. There are 15 million yeast cells and 750 million cells of lactic acid bacteria per gram of desem starter culture. Desem studies have shown them to contain 44 different yeast strains. They all belong to the type of baker's yeast (S. cerevisciae)
Several factors influence the reproduction and activity of bacteria and yeast in desem, they can be grouped into external and internal factors.
• External factors.
- Temperature of sourdough and dough.
- Oxygen content in sourdough and dough (kneading, kneading).
- The ratio of lactic acid to acetic acid in the sourdough and in the dough (= fermentation temperature and dough moisture)
• Internal factors.
- Nutrients (= grade of flour, baking additives in the recipe)
- рH
- Buffer capacity of the dough (= ash content of flour)
- Moisture content of the starter culture
- Salt
Ultra-pure or the easiest form for beginners - bottle or bag desem - is available in both Europe and America.
A bit of history.Gevert was a Belgian master of baking the most difficult bread for bakers - wheat bread made from freshly ground wheat flour. After the war, he returned from France, where his family had been evacuated, and in his bakery in Ghent invented a method of baking an insanely delicious black wheat bread. For such bread, he invented a French sourdough, but not from white flour, but from wheat grains. He called his leaven "leaven", which in his language sounded like "desem". Sourdough bread - Desembrood
30 years later, he revealed the secret of his bread to American bakers, who, in turn, struck the writer Laurel Robertson with a Desembrot. Robertson's book Lauren's Kitchen Bread, in which she described desem and wonderful pastries with it, excited the baking American public. Since then, the hype about desem has not subsided for 30 years.
In 1984, the Dutch bakers' association held a sourdough baking workshop and a baker competition in the ability to bake sourdough bread. Omar Gevert was an honorary judge there and prepared a printed instruction for the participants of the seminar, in which he described his desem and his desembrot.
In the summer of 1987, the English writer Tom Jane, who himself wrote "the best, most accurate and most understandable" book on homemade bread baking, published Gewart's instructions in his Three-Course Gastronomy Gazette. Gewart's instructions were accompanied by comments from German baker Rolf Weichold of Düsseldorf, who, in essence, ridiculed Gewart's recipe, said that such recipes should not be taken seriously, although he himself had not tried the method himself, that it was bread poetry, not science.
Today, 70 years after that momentous time, when Gevert completely perfected the technology of desem and desembrote and started baking his sensational bread, it becomes clear that his recipe is the very perfection from a scientific point of view and that in a sense he reinvented the wheel. It's easy for us to talk about this, with our Internet access, science already knowing everything about bacteria, an understanding of lactic acid fermentation and a full arsenal of a professional baker in an ordinary city kitchen: from a flour mill to powerful kneaders, refrigerators with controlled temperatures in different zones and real hearth furnaces.
But in those years, the quality of the leaven according to the Hevert method and bread with it aroused the desire to cross, lift his face to heaven and thank God for such a miracle. Bread on desem evoked a reverent attitude towards itself. This is approximately how the ancient people perceived a bolt from the blue for the voice of the gods. And although we shudder and admire the elements, we understand that these are electrical discharges in the atmosphere and that no one is angry with us up there. God loves us all, but we need to take care and install a lightning rod and not walk with an umbrella in a thunderstorm.
Scientific substantiation of the method for removing and maintaining the starter culture from soaked grains at 15C.What exactly (re) invented Gevert when he began to prepare the French sourdough from slightly germinated wheat grain in the cold anaerobic way? He found a method of fermentation without decay and spoilage, which has been used since ancient times in the industry of fermentation and urination of fruits.
If you have ever made pickled or pickled apples, or cabbage with beets at home, then you will immediately recognize the method as familiar to you for a long time. In urination and fermentation, the temperature around 15C at the beginning of fermentation is important, a certain amount of sugar in the fruits or in the pouring, and salt is possible, and malt is a substrate for lactic acid bacteria.Lactic acid secreted by bacteria that got into the barrel with urine from the surface of the fruit or (in the industry) from a test tube becomes a preservative during urination and fermentation. Lactic acid fermentation is anaerobic, the fruits are covered with filling. Yeast alcoholic fermentation also proceeds, soaked apples are slightly gassed, slightly spicy, tasty.
In the first 5 days, fermentation proceeds in a cool place at 12-15C, then the urination is cooled to 4C and below, so as not to over-acid.
Omer Gevert accurately repeats the process of peeling apples in his recipe for sourdough wheat. So much so that its sourdough smells like soaked apples and on the fifth day it tastes indistinguishable from soaked apples. Amazing! So, translated into Russian, one could call his method fermentation of moistened wheat!
1) 12-15C, especially in the first five days of fermentation, is the temperature at which lactic acid bacteria act only slightly slower than, say, at 25C, but clostridium butyric acid bacteria (they give the leaven the smell of rancid bacon or old oil, vomit), and likewise, acetic acid bacteria and harmful putrefactive bacteria will not develop. It is important not to allow temperatures above 18C and below 10C. 50-65 degrees Fahrenheit. You will see this figure in the recipe for desem in translated texts for Americans. ...
2) For fermentation, you need enough sugar, at least 5%, because microbes produce lactic acid from sugar. In desem, this is achieved by soaking and malting the grain. (Calvel adds 0.5% malt to the flour) The swollen grain begins to germinate and turns into malt. Enzymes actively unleash grain starch into sugar. So that the sprout does not consume all the sugar, the grain is crushed after the start of germination and the enzymes produce abundant sugar for the needs of the starter microbes only.
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3) The addition of salt to urinates, ferments and sourdoughs somewhat hinders the development of Clostridia, the smelly butyric acid bacteria, from which the leavens also taste bitter and which completely suppress yeast. Omer Gevert noticed this effect of salt and salted the sourdoughs and sourdoughs in the amount of 1% of the weight of the sourdough dough (that is, fresh dough that is mixed with the sourdough). Calvel in his sourdough recipe adds 0.3-0.5% salt to the flour.
4) Fermentation is anaerobic, without air access. The starter cultures in the first 2-3 days (and fermented and soaked) should not be mixed. Desem is buried for the first couple of days in flour and there it is sealed in a hard airtight crust.
Lactic acid bacteria work well in conditions without an influx of fresh oxygen, but most harmful microorganisms are strict aerobes and do not develop in the absence of air.
Acetic acid bacteria cannot develop in the absence of air. Burying a kolobok and swaddling desem drenched in flour into dry diapers helps to avoid the sharp acetic acidity of the leaven, which is unpleasant in wheat bread. On the other hand, good lactic acid bacteria in an acidic environment without oxygen produce generally mild-tasting lactic acid. All three of the most important starter bacteria thrive and produce aromas and lactic acid at 15 ° C in the absence of air - L. san-francisco, L. plantarum, L. brevis.
Stirring or open the surface of the starter culture is a guarantee of the development of acetic acid and butyric acid bacteria, as well as mold.
On days 2-3, lactic acid bacteria completely suppress the rest of the microflora and lactic acid fermentation increases sharply. As soon as the pH reaches 4.4-4.5, acetic acid and lactic acid bacteria are completely blocked in the sealed kolobok. During this time, you can feed the Desem for the first time.
1-grade bread on desem (NataliARH)
Wheat bread with "live" flour on desem (NataliARH)
Oat bread on desem. (NataliARH)
Wheat-rye bread on desem. (NataliARH)