BASIC FUNCTIONS of vegetable oils and animal fats
From the book "Professional Baking" by Paula Figoni
Providing softness
Fats, oils and emulsifiers provide softening, enveloping thickeners - gluten proteins, egg whites and starch granules - and preventing them from absorbing water and forming the structure of the dough. Softness is the opposite of hardness. The soft product is easy to break, chew, crumble or squeeze because it lacks a strong structure. Generally, softness is considered a positive quality. Delicate baked goods are pleasant to bite off. However, leavening agents must be balanced with thickeners.
Too much softening can cause the product to become too crumbly or even destroy it.
Lipids shorten the gluten strands by enveloping them. Like shortenings, all fats, oils and emulsifiers have this property. However, not all lipids provide the same degree of loosening.
Butter and margarine, which contain only 80 percent fat (and water), are less effective softeners than shortening and lard.
The softer or thinner the fat, the easier it is to mix in dough or dough, enveloping flour particles and egg whites. In other words, with the same amount and quality of the remaining ingredients, a softer or thinner fat will provide more softening. This explains why the dough cooked in oil is crumbly and mealy. This also explains why whisked plastic fats loosen better than unbleached fats. Finally, this explains why the highly saturated, very hard cocoa butter in chocolate loosen up the baked goods very slightly.
In the case of puff pastry and other specific foods, loosening is increased when the flour and fat are mixed well before adding water. The smaller the fat particles, the more they envelop the thickening flour particles. This is why French puff buns are so crumbly. French chefs achieve this texture using frying, a process where flour and fat are carefully mixed by hand.
Emulsifiers are very effective in providing loosening. They work in two ways. Method one: Emulsifiers help fats and oils to spread throughout the dough so that fats and oils better envelop the thickeners present. Second way: emulsifiers themselves are very effective in enveloping thickening ingredients. In fact, the amount of fat can be reduced if emulsifiers are added to the dough. Check the packaging for low-fat foods. You will find that many of them contain a large amount of emulsifiers (such as mono- and diglycerides).
In conclusion, we add that the shortening and softening properties inherent in lipids depend on the following factors:
• amount: the more fat, oil or emulsifier, the more loosening;
• the softness of the fat: the softer or thinner the fat, the more loosening;
• particle size: the smaller the fat particles (from a long batch), the more loosening;
• presence of emulsifiers such as mono- and diglycerides.
Providing lamination in puff pastry
Lamination is determined by the number of layers in the baked puff product. There should be many peelable layers in a puff product. The flakiness requires flat pieces of fat to separate the dough. When heated in the oven, the fat melts and the layer structure hardens. This creates separate layers in the product. The more layers and the better they separate, the more layered the baked goods will be. The pieces of fat must remain large enough to separate the layers. Some cooks prefer to stir the fat with flour, not in a mixer, but with their hands to achieve the desired result. Note that layering can vary depending on the size of the fat particles.
If the hard fat melts too quickly during baking, no layers will form. Instead, the melted fat is absorbed into the dough, softening it. This is why puff pastry made with butter is best chilled before baking. For the same reason, fats with a high melting point often provide good layering in culinary products.
The ability of lipids to provide layering in the product depends on the following factors:
• how hard the fat is: the more solid it is and the higher its melting point, the greater the stratification;
• particle size: the larger the fat particle size, the greater the stratification.
Help in raising the dough
Fats increase the amount of air in the dough. They do not raise the dough by themselves; air, steam and carbon dioxide do this. But fat plays an important role in this process.
Fat provokes dough in three ways. The traditional way is to whisk plastic fats when air bubbles get stuck in the fat. Whipped biscuits and cakes get their bulk and good crumb mostly from plastic fats (even if baking powder is added to the dough).
All plastic fats, even when not whipped, contain air, and butter and margarines also contain water, which also helps to raise the dough. Puff pastry products, for example, are lifted by the air and water in the fats. For maximum product height, high melting fats and margarines containing water are used (instead of shortening). However, these fats leave a waxy flavor.
The third method is related to the properties of emulsifiers in highly proportional shortening. Emulsifiers help the proteins to capture air during mixing. That is why liquid shortening cakes are so light and airy.
There are three main ways fat can influence dough:
• air entrapment with plastic fats during whipping;
• with the help of air and water contained in some plastic fats;
• with the help of emulsifiers in highly proportional shortening.
Moisture content
Moisture is a characteristic of all liquid ingredients. Humidifier (water) and liquid oil provide hydration, but their effects are different. Liquid oil provides moisture, but not moisture, and butter, which contains moisture, provides less moisture than liquid oil.
Moisturizing does not mean loosening the product, but these processes can be related. Often, the ingredient that moisturizes the product will also loosen it up. However, chewy (gummy) foods are moist but not soft. And the crispy, crumbly biscuits are soft but not moist.
Not all fats provide good hydration, but only oils, which remain liquid at body temperature. Emulsifiers also help moisturize. Interestingly, fats often provide more moisture to baked foods than water does. The reason is that water often either evaporates or is tightly bound to proteins and starches.
The moisturizing properties of lipids depend on the following factors:
• how liquid the fat is: the more liquid it is at body temperature, the more hydration;
• the presence of emulsifiers such as mono- and diglycerides.
Prevent hardening
Lipids (especially emulsifiers in highly proportional shortenings) interfere with the process of starches retrogradation. Since the retrogradation of starches is the main cause of hardening in baked goods, lipids prevent hardening.
Influence on the taste of the product
The main reason for using butter is that it tastes good. Other fats that have a distinct recognizable flavor are lard, olive oil, and margarine. Since margarine does not have the mild butter flavor, it can only be used as a substitute in certain circumstances.
Even neutral (tasteless) fats affect the taste of the product, enriching it. In the case of fried foods, the breakdown of fats and oils at high temperatures gives the food a certain appealing taste.
To be continued...