Robusta is traditionally used in all Italian espresso blends, but this tradition is beginning to change little by little, thanks in part to Ernesto Illy and his clear point of view against its use. However, European roasters are not as affected by this influence as American roasters, for example. The mere mention of the presence of robusta in mixtures will be enough to draw a conclusion about the mixture. There are a lot of opinions about Robusta in the world, especially in the world of the so-called "coffee people".
There are ardent opponents of using robusta in any coffee. The main opinion, let's even say more, is their assertion that robusta is used only for one purpose - to reduce the cost of the espresso mixture. This factor actually interests Italian roasters most of all, it is the basis of their business, this is their strategy. They make it a strategy for producing supermarket coffee that can sit on shelves for weeks, if not months. And they will tell you that any robusta, no matter how carefully selected, will add different notes of coffee flavor to the mixtures, such as: woody, rubbery, cat urine, dirty basement floor, paper bag taste.
There is a basic fact of Robusta's action, which in no case should be universal. Robusta gives the mixture a dense, long-lasting cream, longer and brighter aftertaste. But opponents will quickly add that this long aftertaste will only torment you longer and find this fact, to say the least, an insult.
Charm of Robusta
Many defenders of robusta point to the Italian roots of its use, spending time arguing that their coffee is real and traditional. They argue that a stable, long-lasting cream is the defining characteristic of espresso, allowing it to last longer. They will argue with you that a small amount of carefully selected robusta, combined with the "right" Arabica, will give the espresso the desired "body" and cream and will not be noticed in the flavor layout, and at the same time will merge with the overall taste and dilute the acidity in the cup ...
Let's figure it out. No one claims that robusta is in coffee. Let's agree that there are Italian, American, Scandinavian * and other European * roasters (* note and let's agree that all roasters use robusta because it is cheaper than Arabica, it gives more espresso cream and a longer shelf life. There are several coffee roaster companies in America who believe that only the use of Robusta gives them the desired result and quality that 100% Arabica cannot give.
Among these "rebels": David Schomer, Espresso Vivace, Dr. Dosef John, Josuma Coffee, Mauro Cipolla, Caffe D'arte, John di Ruocco, Mr. Espresso and Tony Konecny, Victrola Coffee Roasters.
Coffee Review's other advocate and editor is Kenneth Davids. According to him, he often uses high quality Robusta in his espresso blends and prefers espresso with 10 or 20 percent content. David notes that such a negative aura of robusta is due to the majority of manufacturers who use a rather cheap product, with rather "poor" processing. The robusta that he finds attractive enough comes from India, Uganda and, more recently, Mexico. This is the highest quality washed robusta.
“Robusta beans are like a black hole in a coffee filter, they suck all the energy out of the drink. But in espresso, they function in a different direction. Robusta in espresso is able to bring everything together and create a flavor resonance. Very good robusta can offer positive flavor notes. Usually it is spice and nutty. " When David mixes for a client, he usually offers 4 or 5 options, and almost always the client chooses a mix with Robusta content.
David Schomer described to us a conversation with an Italian roaster that happened in 1993 during a coffee trip in Italy. When he asked why the Italians use Robusta as an "ingredient" for espresso blends, the roaster explained that the roasters here are concerned with finding a really good robusta that can produce the right body and cream in the espresso. The question of his supplier of Robusta was unnecessary, this is his best kept secret of the firm.
“Thus began my search for a soft, non-coarse robusta,” says Schomer, “and my search is focused on estate robusta, hand-cultivated, washed and selected to the same quality as the finest Arabica.” Schomer confirms that there is a place for high-quality robusta in his espresso blends.
Mauro Cipolla sees himself as a defender of an espresso tradition that, in his opinion, was lost even in Italy. "A real espresso blend," he states, "dark roasted, with the 'right' robusta, roasted at a temperature and time different from Arabica. Blended in the right proportions with the 'right', non-conflicting Arabica beans. Espresso blends with 100% content can produce cream, but not the texture. It's not even the texture of the cream, but its characteristics, which are customary to evaluate the cream - density and viscosity. It is very difficult to work with Robusta, even harder than with Arabica. But as soon as you learn and understand what to do with Robusta , it would be a great addition to Arabica. "
John di Ruocco entered the coffee business without any understanding of the matter. From the very beginning, he was interested in working with mixtures in an Italian style and according to Italian traditions. To do this, he imported Indian Robusta, in the process of research he realized that Indian grains are very soft in taste. After watching and working for a while, I figured it would be a great addition to his mixes. “Why can't I use Robusta? Just because you started a campaign against its use around the world? "
"The amazing thing about an espresso machine," says John, "is the amazing ability of water molecules to penetrate the interior of the coffee particles and pull a lot of oils out of the beans." Last but not least, "If you are not drawing oils, you are not making espresso."
100% Arabica
Robusta's most famous adversary in recent years has been Don Schoenholt, the founding father of the SCAA (American Specialty Coffee Association) and president of Gillies Coffee in New York. Schoenholt recalls one long time ago when Pete McLaughlin of Royal Coffee asked him to try an unusual coffee. "The coffee was heavy and smooth, without aroma or acidity. It had a neutral aspect to the taste. The whole body was deep, dark, heavy and enveloping in the mouth."
The mystery coffee turned out to be a washed Thai Robusta roasted to the second break, and McLaughlin then added that it could be used in espresso. Schoenholt tried to experiment with this robusta, but in the end he abandoned the idea. As he himself says: “An unnecessary effect appeared in the cup, even though I like milk froth for espresso, soda with ice cream and beer, but I prefer not to exchange the original taste of my coffee for esoteric bubbles in the cup from the action of Robusta (* approx. due to the amount and texture of the cream).
There is one theory about the most ardent members of the movement who oppose the use of robusta. The fact is that the founders of the specialty coffee movement in America are not really espresso people, but were more like boiled coffee lovers (approx.french, drip coffee maker, filter, etc.) When we asked Schoenholt about this, he said, that nothing like that. "We consider ourselves to be people who seek the truth in the grains themselves, and not in the methods of preparing these grains."
Finally, Schoenholz slammed the door: “It is true that we went on the warpath with Robusta. It is also true that times change. The success of our specialty coffee idea in the field is definitely a place to be.We can calmly breathe and rest, maybe not in terms of raising standards, but in dogma itself. "
George Howell, Tim Castle and Maen Alves give some mundane facts about Robusta. “I've tried a few of the most famous robusta espresso blends and I don't care for them,” says Tim Castle. “In my opinion, this is an approach to achieve a specific function in espresso. The function of obtaining a large amount of cream, with a taste of rubber, which actually locks in all the positive characteristics of arabica. "
Howell recalls being blown away by Indian Robusta, which he tasted at the SCAA conference in Boston in 2003. But he quickly adds: “The empty, unsweetened taste of Robusta does not give me the right to use it in my mixtures. This is not a tool with which I can achieve the desired result for me - but this is sweetness. "
Maen Alves, owner of Coffee Lab International, talks about a case with his client who wanted to get a mixture with robusta, but that its taste in espresso was absolutely not noticed. Using the soft Angolan robusta, he found that the robusta was impossible to detect, either visually or to taste. But ... as soon as the ratio reached 10-15%, the robusta flavor was pronounced. Until now, he prefers to stand his ground. There is no need to use Robusta in espresso blends, since the main factor that affects the quantity and quality of the cream is not the type of beans used in the blend and their freshness.
Alvs also has a completely logical business statement. When coffee shop owners use robusta beans, they automatically play against themselves. Try to drink espresso from 100% Arabica, after a few hours your body will "ask" for more, and a cup of espresso with robusta will be enough for you for the whole day. "I work in a business where I am directly interested in the fact that the client would come to me more than once a day."
Neutral territory
Until now, many roasters, who play a central role in the American espresso scene, are resisting the onslaught of the anti-robusta campaign. For example, the newcomer to the Victrola Coffee Roasters market in Seattle. This company was not represented at the SCAA conference, was not included in the Coffee Seattle tour. However, a huge number of baristas, conference participants visited this roaster's coffee shop to taste the famous Victrola's Streamline Espresso blend - a rich, soft, in which notes of blueberry are clearly felt due to the Ethiopian Harrar base.
David Schomer himself took part in the formulation of the concept of these roasters, since Schomer uses robusta in his mixtures, the owners of this company chose not to change the conceptual basis of their mixtures. From the statement of the co-owner of Victrola Coffee Roasters Tony Konecny, it follows: “We do not use robusta for the cream. Good robusta, well fried, offers new flavors and glues the whole flavor together and this is the unique quality of robusta. " At the same time, Tony does not fully support the robusta defenders and says that the decision to remove robusta from the mixture always remains with him and this is not a problem for him.
Experts have tried many of the best espresso blends in America, some with robusta, others opposite 100% Arabica, and each has its own truth. By the way, one of the best blends with 100% Arabica is considered the blend of Tim Vandelbo, world champion 2004 and George Howell, Daterra Farm North Italian Style. Among the mixtures with robusta, the leaders are: David Schomer's mix, Dolce blend, as well as Victrola Streamline Espresso mix, Caffe D'arte, Parioli mix ...
The debate on the use of robusta in mixtures will continue for a long time, and is unlikely to stop in the foreseeable future. We can only hope that every year there will be competent roasters, owners of coffee houses and cafes, baristas who will continue to search for the perfect espresso.
Russian experience
(based on forum materials - [link] -
As many may have noticed, our forum also did not pass by the topic of robusta and its use by Russian roasters in their mixtures.The debates were attended by representatives of roaster companies, baristas and coffee lovers. We publish the main opinions on the topic of the forum "Robusta - Myths and Reality", let's see if the opinions of Russian professionals coincide with the American ones and to what extent the parties disagree.
I'll make a reservation right away, the topic was raised by a registered user - [link] -, a gentleman with the pseudonym Look, who this person is and what company he represents has not yet been found out. However, his opinion is the opinion of a professional, well-grounded and competent, at least in my purely personal discretion. So the opinion:
Look is the enemy of Robusta:
“My opinion: Robusta is needed only to reduce the cost of the mixture, while the quality of the drink significantly reduces. I justify the points:
1. Creams. Yes, working with Robusta is easier, the cream itself turns out to be more magnificent. Because the robusta grain has a lower density. But the cream works great on mixtures of fresh Arabica, if you know how to work with grinding. Buy and try it yourself. And at the same time, the drink is much better in taste, aroma, which is what the buyer needs.
2. Density of the drink - I agree. The drink becomes somewhat denser. But the best results can be achieved by working with the degree of roast of the Arabica. The same applies to bitterness, although in robusta, bitterness is more likely.
3. Washed Robusta. Yes, it is better than natural and more beautiful in appearance. But it is still a grain that is lower in quality than specialty arabica. And more harmful to health. And it still degrades the content of the drink. Who does not believe - drink separately such robusta in a jacket and compare with arabica. In espresso, the difference in quality, especially in mixtures, is not so noticeable, but Robusta is better when prepared under a pressure of 9 atm. does not become unambiguous. And the jacket will show everything as it is.
4. The taste is better with robusta. Nifiga like that, if you drink coffee for a long time and begin to understand it more or less, then the best quality of espresso from a mixture of Arabica is obvious. Today, the bulk of people who say that Robusta is needed just heard it from someone, but did not come to it themselves as a result of long-term coffee consumption. It is easier to repeat what you hear with a clever look than to figure it out yourself. And how can a component improve the drink, which is initially worse in quality, taste, aroma and composition?
5. Chemical composition. Nobody talks about the chemical composition of Robusta. And if anyone is interested, then Robusta is inferior to Arabica in all characteristics. More caffeine, higher acidity, less aromatic essential oils, worse taste characteristics. Yes, and it is grown and harvested in a shaft, it grows faster and easier. Historically, it began to be added to blends after the need arose to fight competitors and reduce the cost of the product, as well as to meet the growing market demand. You still need to tinker with arabica, its best varieties grow at a height, ripen for a long time, require a huge investment of knowledge and effort. Then it is manually collected and sorted. And robusta is usually harvested in bulk, processed cheaply, today its largest supplier is Vietnam. In general, robusta has become especially popular after the development and implementation of a method for preparing instant coffee, which today is drunk most of all in underdeveloped countries due to poverty. Robusta made it possible to make coffee available to the poor, and significantly expand the sales market. Today, in developed countries, the consumption of robusta is declining, people are drinking good Arabica, and programs are emerging to help farmers improve the quality of grain. In the same Italy, robusta began to be actively used after the war, they themselves write about it, because they could not buy pure Arabica because of poverty. Probably still have not moved away from the war.
Therefore, I am sure that robusta is just a tool for competing in markets where people are still poorly versed in coffee due to poverty. And the struggle is at the expense of us, consumers, who come to coffee houses receive a product of inferior quality, but pay as for a high-quality drink. And in the end they stop drinking coffee, because it just doesn't taste good. "
The next person who is directly involved in the production of coffee. Owner of the Fresh Coffee company, Oleg Grishonkov.
DonPino - on the side of robusta:
“Let's figure it out on the merits.
Having worked for almost 13 years in Montana, I was also sure of the dogma of the postulates that espresso is the coolest of 100% Arabica, but a couple of years ago I changed my mind and idea about it. And that is why, washed robusta, in its characteristics, is not much inferior to good, for example, Brazilian Arabica, and at a price it is even more expensive.
To my great regret, Arabica specialty in this country no one has, and does not use. Yes, we do not process bad Arabica, but this is not a bit of a specialty. On the question of the price, if in my last mixture, where more than 25% of the Galapagos ($ 35 at the end of production), contains 10% washed robusta, and the mixture includes 3 more not cheap Arabica, then sorry how robusta can affect the cost of the mixture ...
I absolutely agree that the dominance of foreign suppliers, and not the best ones, is now shaping the taste of our consumer, and that, especially in Italian blends with cheap Vietnamese robusta, it is up to 60%, it is a disaster. But here, first of all, our buyers are to blame, for whom, naturally, the price is on the 1st place, and then we will give the equipment, cups, spoons and ...
I do not think that I will reveal a big secret that most suppliers have a purchase price of no more than 5-6 euros per kg, and you know how much they sell. I have studied all these issues in great detail, so I speak with a fair amount of confidence. But a really good espresso, for example Illy, is how it costs, thank God. "
Yuri Popov - finalist of the world cap-testing championship, 2004
A man with a spoon - neutrality:
“The value of the product" coffee "is in the richness of its taste and aroma characteristics. That is absolutely unattainable from the grain of the old harvest and "old" roasting. Fresh coffee is much more difficult to work with, no questions asked. This is a living product (we suck a little). The restaurateur himself, here you are absolutely right, must decide what he needs - a constant mediocre quality or an eternal struggle with the barista for the perfect cup of espresso. My business, as a supplier, is to provide choice and not miss the client. "
Olga Melik-Karakozova - barista, champion of Russia 2004, Barista Education & Consulting
Karakozz - neutrality:
“My attitude to robusta. I don't mind adding it to the mix. If someone likes it, let him drink. For the last year I stop enjoying it (maybe it just wasn't the best harvest). As for the cream, Arabica will not foam like Robusta. But fresh coffee, even 100% Arabica, is still cremitic. It seems to me that any component in the mixture should carry the flavor load. Adding robusta only for cream is stupid. To my taste, I repeat, she does not rush me this year. I liked it before, but that's a completely different story. "
Nikolay Yalansky - specialist in work with the HoReCa sector, Montana Coffee, St. Petersburg
Nik-I is the enemy of Robusta:
“The fact that high quality Arabica is better than any mixture with robusta is a fact! And I totally agree with Look's opinion. And the problem is not only that the market is flooded with cheap mixtures, but perhaps the most pressing question is that there are very few good baristas in our establishments. They will be able not only to make a good espresso or cappuccino, but also to explain to the visitor what is the difference between Arabica and Robusta, what they eat with what, and what each of them actually carries. And you have to work with the buyer, and this is very serious today, because 95% of our entire population are accustomed to the acorn taste of coffee drinks, and they are simply frightened by the richness of taste and aroma of high-quality arabica "
These are the opinions of some players in the coffee market in our country. We hope this article will give you the necessary data to determine your own position, and energize you to drink delicious, literate and honest coffee every day.
