Bread Maker Kenwood BM900

and if you count, are the numbers very different? I have not noticed any imbalances yet.
Where does the recipe from a book or CD come from?
Yes, congratulations on the stove!

and if you count, are the numbers very different? I have not noticed any imbalances yet.
Where does the recipe from a book or CD come from?
Yes, congratulations on the stove!

The recipe from the book, number 1. True, 380 grams of water and 5 tablespoons of milk powder were replaced with 400 grams of regular milk.
It's not about the proportions, but about the fact that I would like the same one and a half kilograms, as stated.
About numbers:
Flour - in the recipe for 600 kilograms, for one and a half 800, if you count - 900. 100 grams are missing.
Water - 380, 500 and 570 respectively. Not enough 90.
It seems like a trifle, but as almost an engineer, it annoys me.
Have you tried a one and a half kilogram loaf according to the first recipe? It turned out okay, the taste is the same as that of the kilogram?

In general, I try to bake 1.5 kg. because there are many of us and everyone wants to try.
But I counted only those recipes that did not have a weight of 1.5. But the book doesn’t work out one and a half.
just now I've baked program 4 according to recipe 2 (brioche buns), I'll go weigh the finished product.

1,429 kg, weighed. really added vanillin 2 bags and a double dose of dry yeast, something I have questions for them.

Yesterday I made rye bread
by Dusya Myshkina's technology from here https://mcooker-enm.tomathouse.com/in...m_smf&topic=489.0#msg4273 9th post.
The recipe was recalculated from a source using Panasonic:

per kilogram of loaf (sorry, I forgot to weigh it later, I didn't have time)

Water 430 ml
rast. oil 3 tbsp. spoons
honey or sugar 2.5 tbsp. spoons, I used honey
salt 3 tsp
malt 5 tbsp spoons
seeded rye flour 320 gr. (took half and half wallpaper and peeled)
wheat flour 360 gr (I took 1 grade)
yeast 2.5 tsp
added a teaspoon of caraway seeds, flaxseed and French herbs, such a seasoning was

I brewed the malt, the yeast went well, I gave them for about an hour.
then on the pizza mode I kneaded (, then the rye bread mode.

result:


delicious

seasonings I will regulate, I will try today without.

From the recipe book, Chocolate Bread:



Delicious, though I didn't lay down pieces of chocolate, only cocoa. Children learned quickly.

Egg bread



Good.

but my French does not come out according to the recipe book, the roof constantly collapses, at first everything is fine, and then bam ... look, it is tasty in itself, I might have chosen it for constant production (favorite recipe).
Can anyone share a good recipe?

Tatiana try to bake bread for sandwiches, Yana's (Tatiana's) recipe with I get it great. I counted the recipe at 750g, but the loaf turns out to be decent. Water -280 ml., Wheat flour-470 g., Olive oil (I have vegetable) -1.5 tbsp. l., salt-1.5 tsp. l., sugar-1.5 tbsp. l., dry. shiver-1.5 hours l. I bake on the main one, put a dark crust (for some reason I have a very pale crust on the middle one). After the second workout, I take out the shoulder blades. This is our favorite bread.

Thanks, I will definitely try.

Martalis, thanks!
The bread is wonderful! Risks to get into your favorites!
I counted it for 1 kg of the finished product, so I'm better at it.
Water - 375 ml
Wheat flour - 610 gr
Olive oil - 2 tbsp. l.
Salt - 2 tsp
Sugar - 2 tbsp. l.
Yeast - 2 tsp

put with a delayed start for 7 hours, program 2 French bread.

Girls, please help! One mixer began to creak during kneading ... did anyone have it ?! Is this normal ?! Thank you in advance!!!!

I immediately creaked, now it has stopped.

I immediately creaked, now it has stopped.

Hope it will stop at the next batch! Thank you for such a quick response)

We bought the stove a couple of weeks ago. I am very happy. So far, I only baked bread on the first program, pure wheat, from a mixture of wheat and rye, from baking wheat flour (I am in the Czech Republic and I still can't figure out which flour is for what). Roof made of bakery opal, although the bread was delicious.He reminded me of bread from childhood "Wheat", we also called it gray in the same loaves sold. The rest all the bread turned out to be perfect. Once I kneaded the dough into buns, now I will more often enjoy the children with yeast baked goods, before I was somehow too lazy to mess around.

For two weeks the scapula creaked, just some kind of hell, to be honest. But yesterday, suddenly, she stopped, and I was already thinking about contacting the warranty service.

I have a question: if I like a recipe, I can calculate it by the weight suitable for our oven and bake on a suitable program, do I understand correctly?

I'm counting. Fine. But! Look after the bun when kneading (not wet and not too dry, add either water or flour in time) and there is an idea of ​​the amount of yeast - no more than 1.5 tsp. in normal mode.

By the way, I'm in trouble with the stove. First, one axle for the shovel fell out of the bucket. I decided to use it more carefully. Then, during kneading, there was a tight dough and removed the spatula from this axis and the stove began to rattle with this spade all over the bucket. In short - there are 2 dents in the bucket, it can work, but! now there is a grinding noise when mixing. The cogwheels were evidently confirmed, a couple of cogs broke. Now I will fix it (And the guarantee just ended. ((

[zeltko]

zeltko, Thank you!

It looks like I finally found what a joint when baking bread ... In the last six months, it turns out 1 time out of 3 more or less, the other 2 times from 3 to 2 (on a 5 point scale).
They changed the flour, and the yeast, and have already studied this whole site and other Internet, which they did not do - almost unchanged.
And then I noticed a large sticker on the front - a fan and two pictures next to it: bread with and without it. So - we just basically get it like in the picture without it: a flat pale top ... Yes, and before it was level with the shape, but now, even with a successful scenario, it is stable by cm 2 lower (with a bad one, it is generally somewhere lower middle of the form).
I read this thread - I see that it is very similar.
Now it only remains to find out if the fan is really the case. As I understand, I will study everything on program 7.

By the way, one scapula sometimes began to grind during kneading (distant, although it is unlikely that the form is always set the same).

In both cases, everything can be done only on its own or for money - the guarantee ended long ago (bought in the summer of 2012).

I tried it - silence.
It remains to figure out how to disassemble it ...
Unscrew the screws from the bottom - the bottom cannot be removed. He began to unscrew some of the screws inside (of the casing) - he realized that something was loose on the other side (that is, they were not screwed into the case), he did not risk it.

I don't really want to carry it for repairs.
How to understand the principle of disassembling the Kenwoods ...

I disassembled the bread maker. The motor was repaired.
On the main program with medium crust, switch on 45 to approx. 20 minutes before the end of baking.

But by leaps and bounds Saf Moment (blue bag) the bread still turned out to be 3 cm below the top of the mold, although it looks good. Yeast, as written on the package, was soaked in warm water for 10 minutes.

Alex, how did you take it apart? (order).
I seem to have a problem with the gearbox). After the too tight dough removed one scapula and twisted it in a bucket, the bakery began to rattle during operation (kneading). Apparently you need to change the gears (where to get them ...). This breakdown is taken for repair.
And now the oil seal is also leaky in the bucket and the blade pulley falls out. - They don't want to fix it - buy a new bucket. And it costs 40 dollars for ours. (In Kiev, 26, but where is that Kiev ...?)

Didn't see the message. But now it's time to write in more detail.

In early November, a bucket started to flow. So much so that a puddle appeared under the bread maker.
Inspection revealed that the oil seals were completely worn out - torn along the edges.
The study of the Internet showed that the best option is to replace the oil seals. Those who were one to one as relatives were not in Moscow (here's the capital for you ...) and cost 350-400 rubles apiece, but there are two of them. In Moscow, there were some gray ones at a price of about 300 rubles, but far from me - to go to the other end of the city (at least two hours to kill).As a result, I found exactly the same ones (according to the photo at least) in the Crimea for 72 r - at least some benefit to me finally from this accession As a result, 4 oil seals + forwarding + mail collection (93 r ​​- 20% !!!!) - cost all at 560 p. It's all the same cheaper than buying here, especially considering that it is not on foot to go to the other end of Moscow, but to pay for transport Outwardly, it is not bad - not silicone (the best option - but you still need to go), fluoroplastic (the release of harmful substances when heated more than 300 degrees - with a margin).
Immediately I want to warn those who want to run into a car shop and look for similar ones there - the materials from which the oil seals for motors, etc. are made, really withstand temperatures and more than 200 degrees (average for a bread machine), but they can emit a lot of all kinds of nasty things - the motor does not care, but we have this bread.
For those who may need: the size of the gland is 8 * 19 * 8 (inner diameter * outer diameter * height) - the height may be slightly lower or higher, but there must be a ring-side around the circumference of the gland, there are even edges - this not for this model.

While the oil seals were going, I was thinking how to fix all this, given the fact that the bucket frame is attached to rivets - it's not a problem to drill, the problem is to find stainless steel screws with a cone ... (some manufacturers thought about this and immediately made the screws). It turned out that Moulinex has a similar model (the bucket is generally one-to-one according to the photo, with the same rivets). I found it on this forum for repairing it and realized that you can risk installing oil seals without completely disassembling the bucket.

So the process itself.
Carefully remove the locking ring at the bottom of the bucket on the shaft (where the hook paws are with the rotation mechanism) - carefully, they can fly away or they can be bent). We remove the paws, under them there are copper washers (on mine there are three on each shaft - I advise you to look for the same ones, since these are worn out and everything hangs on the shaft, it is possible in the auto shop - copper is not polymer). Now the shaft can be pulled up (this is the only way - under the gland there is another retaining ring, and below it there is a thin washer made of white material: also fluoroplastic?). But before removing the shaft, we take out the old oil seals without really caring about their condition (they have outlived theirs) - the main thing is not to damage the shafts and the bucket itself. As soon as the remnants of the oil seal are removed, you can safely remove the shaft.
Now we need to clear everything. We remove the white ring, the retaining ring in the middle can not be touched. I cleaned the places for the oil seals with a thick napkin, just stuffing it into a niche and rotating it with your finger, you can take the fabric. Pull through the shaft sleeves by rotating a rag or napkin. Sometimes it is recommended to clean the shafts with fine sandpaper, but I did not risk it: everything fits freely there anyway - why make the shaft even smaller ... I just cleaned it off with a damp sponge for washing dishes (the detergent also dripped) and wiped it off with a cloth. Copper washers and locking rings were also wiped with a sponge and cloth.
We look at how the shaft sleeve stands - it should only protrude slightly (less than 1 mm) into the stuffing box niche, if it is more, we try to drive it down through the end head (diameter like the sleeve): carefully !, so as not to break the frame or bend the bucket. If there is a lot of protrusion, it will be difficult to insert the oil seal (this is a personal experience - on my bucket it was like this once: one bushing protruded more, the other less).

Now the next step is assembly. We put the white washer back on the shaft. Next, you need copper foil - I'll write where to get it below. It is needed to compensate for the wear of the bushing (you can also order a new bushing, but they are some kind of copper-graphite, and the relatives are similar to steel - stronger, less wear). Cut off a piece, try it on so that it wraps around the shaft in one turn, the length is slightly longer than the shaft. We screw it onto the part of the shaft that is inserted into the sleeve and crumple it around the shaft from below - it is easier to insert it into the sleeve, carefully insert it so as not to jam, and now we already have a copper sleeve in the main sleeve - compensation for wear and better sliding. In my case, the shafts dangle a little, but for now I stopped at this option - nevertheless, a thermal gap is needed, and it is more difficult to insert a couple of turns of the foil evenly, without breaking.

Added Wednesday, 30 Nov 2016 11:41 am

Continuation.
The most difficult thing is to insert the oil seals without removing the base of the bucket ...
We need a socket head slightly less than the diameter of the gland, it is better to put one on which not a ratchet, but a regular handle (like a screwdriver) - that is, 1/4 (small square).
We smear the edges of the bucket around the places for the oil seals with sunflower oil (a little with a cotton swab). We put the oil seal on the shaft. And now we are trying to push at least one edge of it into a niche (it is very difficult with our fingers, even for me - I’m not small, the second one could only with the help of the socket head). Then, little by little clockwise (or counterclockwise - it doesn't matter) we press the edge of the gland under the edge of the bucket into the niche, you can help a little with a small flat screwdriver, but carefully so as not to break. As soon as the oil seal is in place, we look at what it would stand in the center of the niche, if it went sideways (usually to the side that was first inserted), then we slightly press the shaft in the opposite direction, you can try to rotate the oil seal itself a little - in the end, it should stand along the axis shaft.
Now we put on copper washers from the side of the frame (before that I poured a little spray copper grease on the shaft (the operating temperature in my opinion is up to 1000 degrees), so that everything would fall into the bushing). Next, the foot is engaged with the curved parts upwards, towards the bucket. We put on the retaining ring. Look what happened - if everything dangles, look how much to add (I did not prepare copper washers, so I just took a few wires from a stranded copper cable and made a ring out of them, and then put them between two copper washers - slurry, but even so. If prepared in advance the ring is just this thick, then it's good, if not, then we grind off the excess on coarse sandpaper or a file. But remember that here a little freedom is needed - not to put everything on. To make it easier to put on the controversial ring, the shaft inside the bucket is better than propping it up (a bar, a piece of board), otherwise it strives to sink inside.
All. The bucket is ready!

Added Wednesday, 30 Nov 2016 11:52

Since the water was flowing down, I decided to disassemble the bread maker itself in order to clean and lubricate the gears.

Belated disassembly report.
We put it upside down. We unscrew the screws around the perimeter (attention: one screw is not the same as the others, it is shorter and larger in diameter - it is located in the far right corner (if the bread machine is facing you).
Now we put it in its normal position. We open the lid. We unscrew the screw that holds the foot of the heating element from the side of the lid hinge (otherwise it is not convenient to crawl to all the screws around the bucket niche). Next, unscrew 2 screws on each side, moving the heating element so that it does not interfere with the screwdriver from getting into the screw slot (carefully!). You don't need to twist anything else on the walls! These screws hold the parts and do not interfere with disassembly.
All. All fasteners are unscrewed. Gently lift the body of the bread machine and gradually tilt it to the right - you should have a lot of space to put it all. We make sure that the wires do not break the board on the bed.
Now either we unscrew a few screws around the perimeter of the bed to remove the plastic bottom and gain access to the gears and the belt.
Or we unscrew the three screws on the bucket niche cover to remove the motor cover with the motor itself.
Plans: when the bucket needs to be repaired, still buy M5 screws (about 1.5 cm long) with a tapered head, and the bushings can be replaced with a needle bearing, and it is possible to grind new shafts.

I hope the report will be useful

"Note to the hostess": as I understood, studying everything before repairing, it is extremely undesirable to wash the bucket, only to dilute excess corrosion (we washed only 6 times in all 4 years), it is also not worth making jams, etc., too - if the oil seal and shaft are worn out, then the syrup will get into the gap and either jam the shaft or increase wear after curing.

Added Wednesday, 30 Nov 2016 12:23 pm

Now where to get the copper foil.
Attention! This is all done at your own peril and risk!
Better to have safety goggles and rubber tight gloves ready (I didn't use this - but don't say I didn't warn you!)
Everything is best done in the bathroom or in the workshop.

We need an ordinary flat battery from a photo camera, phone, etc. (all the same, only pollute the environment if it has served its purpose).
We open the plastic case - it's all the same, it's just a shell, inside a steel container.
We remember where the terminals were. Having stepped back from the edge with terminals less than a millimeter, we cut the container around the perimeter with a chisel. Remove the cover where the terminals were. If the battery is not very swollen, then pulling the contacts take out the insides. If it is inflated and they don't go anywhere, then we cut the container further along one of the corners (carefully! We do not pierce the insides!)
We remove the insides, tear off a piece of the fixing tape and unwind - we have three tapes: copper, aluminum and insulation. Wash copper under running water (maybe hiss is not scary).
All now we have copper foil for crafts.
The rest is either taken to the disposal point, or we hide in a secluded corner (suddenly it will come in handy).

The main thing is not to pierce the container - even in a completely discharged battery, a short circuit can occur and there will be a minimum of smoke, a maximum of fire

P.S. Bloggers and other copywriters who steal reports on their sites - so that you have the cheapest store bread all your life!

Thanks for the detailed report!
Didn't you remove the dimensions of the copper-graphite sleeve? I, while, did not take out the shaft, I am waiting for the approach of the oil seals. But, on one Crimean site I found bushings. In our buckets, the outer diameter is 14, "in the light" - 8, but the height of the sleeve is not known.

No, I didn't. But everything is not difficult there - you need the height of that part of the frame (it is riveted to the bottom of the bucket) where the bushings are inserted.
In my opinion, when I studied the issue of bearings instead of bushings, it turned out about 17 mm. In any case, take measurements with a margin - it is not difficult to grind off the excess length from the sleeve later.
I also ordered from Crimea, I don't remember the store now, but the design is very simple.

Yes, not at all! (I myself suffered for the first time while dismantling to deal with a jammed fan ...)

Hello, can you tell me the recipes for the test and on which program to do it?